Repair of brick walls destroyed by precipitation. Repair of brickwork of walls in separate places. Restoration of brickwork seams

How to restore old brickwork: repair technology

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Materials and tools for repairing brick walls

Brick wall repair technology

1. Using a pick, remove the mortar where a crack has formed on the old brick wall.

2. Walk along the joints with a hard metal brush, removing fragments. Do this carefully so as not to scratch the surface of the bricks.

3. Make a groove in the mortar along the length of all joints. Its depth should be approximately the same and sufficient to fix the new solution.

4. Clean the seams with a vacuum cleaner.

5. Using a spray bottle, wet the surface of the wall and grooves. This must be done without fail, because if the old brick wall is dry, then the water from the solution will quickly be absorbed, which will adversely affect its strength.

6. Mix cement, sand and lime in the required proportions in a container for mixing the mortar.

7. After the mixture becomes homogeneous, pour water into the container and mix thoroughly.

8. Moisten the surface of the plywood pallet and apply some mortar to it. Lean the pallet against the wall, aligning its surface with the bottom edge of the seam. By jointing, move the mortar in small portions over the surface of the pallet and fill the seams.

10. When all the seams at the site of the crack in the brick wall are filled with new mortar, you need to remove its excess protruding above the surface. To do this, use cutting off (trowel with flat side edges).

11. In order for the mortar to set well, moisten the seams on the old brick wall daily for a week.

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Wall surface cleaning.

One of the safest and effective ways cleaning the wall from dirt and mold is washing it with low pressure water using a stiff brush.

The surface of a brick wall can be cleaned and mechanically, using a grinder, by removing the surface layer of the bricks being cleaned. However, this method of cleaning is not entirely acceptable, as it leads to a violation of the surface of the bricks.

Restoration of brickwork seams.

Using a hammer and a special chisel, the old mortar is removed to a depth of 25 mm in the restored area. Removing the mortar can also be done using a special device with a hook at the end or using a hand circular saw with a carborundum disc. When working to remove the old solution, be sure to use personal protective equipment: a respirator, goggles (protective shield);

With a brush, the remaining crumbs formed during the work of tools are removed from the cut seam, after which the seam itself is washed under running water from a garden hose. Make sure that after washing the seam no water remains in it, the surface of the seam should only be wet;

Prepare a solution for sealing seams. For these purposes, it is better to use a mortar type “N” of pre-hydrated cement from three parts of sand without water. From this mixture, by adding a small amount of water, a hard solution is obtained, which, when compressed in a fist, retains the shape given to it. After about five minutes, more water is added to obtain a less rigid solution that can be laid into the seam. Such a solution must be completely used within half an hour;

The cut seam is clogged with mortar to a layer thickness of 5-7 mm from the surface of the old mortar and carefully compacted. Having thus hammered the seam several meters in length, they return to the starting point and re-fill the seam with a solution with a second layer, and so on, until the seam is completely filled with mortar;

After sufficient hardening of the last layer (when pressed with a finger, an imprint should remain from it), jointing is performed corresponding to the jointing of the remaining masonry joints.

CRACK REMOVAL

Important! Before carrying out the restoration, the load-bearing wall must be fixed with props or strengthened in another way.

Source: http://klademkirpich.ru/operacii/osobennosti-kladki/397-remont-kirpichnoj-kladki
Such a defect in the outer walls has to be eliminated quite often. In order to choose the optimal method, it is necessary to determine whether such a crack continues to grow. A proven way to do this is to install beacons (strips of paper 75-90 mm or plaster jumpers of a similar size). If the wall is plastered, then beacons should be installed only after the layer of old plaster is removed.

After installing the beacons, you must leave them for two weeks. If the crack grows, then after a while it will be accurately determined. If the beacons remain in place, then you can proceed to direct repairs. The main repair method in this case is the strengthening of cracks with cement mortar. This method is quite reliable. However, when preparing the solution, it is necessary to take into account the size of the defect. A small crack can be filled with a liquid cement-sand mortar. When eliminating a significant defect, solutions are used with the addition of special adhesive compositions. Note! The solution is poured into the crack using a special tool that resembles a large syringe in appearance and design.
The secret of the Dutch seam is revealed

Fixing a crack in the façade

Clean the seams with an old screwdriver or a wire brush. Blow through the seams. Moisten. Sand 6 blades, mix 2 cement. Gradually add water. The imprint of the scapula should be preserved. Expand the angle from the corner to the middle.

Series of messages "

Brickwork, made by the hands of a master, looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. Many home owners decide that she will decorate their house not only outside, but also inside.

But over time, it may require either repair or some kind of external refinement to match the overall style of the interior. This article will describe several ways to ennoble a brick wall on your own.

Brick wall repair

Repair of brickwork is necessary if cracks appear on it, the seams crumble, and the brick itself begins to stick badly or collapse from time to time. Just plastering the wall is not an option, since you want to preserve the original appearance of the surface.

Preparatory work

Methods for eliminating defects depend on their type and degree of wear, but in any case, careful preparation of the surface for repair is necessary first.

You will have to do the following:

• Remove a layer of old paint or plaster, if any;
• Clean cracks and seams from mortar residue, dirt and dust using a stiff brush;
• Rinse the wall with clean water;
• Dry thoroughly.

The most difficult of the above is cleaning the walls of plaster, protruding from the mortar joints and adhering cement.

There are two ways to clean brick from cement:

• Mechanical. Before starting work, the surface is well moistened with water - so the solution is easier to clean. Flat spots are cleaned off with a spatula or trowel. You can also use a metal brush, but it scratches the surface, especially sand-lime brick. Volumetric pieces of cement are chipped off with a chisel and a hammer. To finally remove all contamination, use sandpaper or a grinder.

• Chemical. Special tools for softening cement mortar can be bought and used for their intended purpose, following the manufacturer's recommendations. And you can dilute sulfuric or hydrochloric acid with water in a ratio of 1:10, and apply the solution on the wall for 10-30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the cement. After that, remove it mechanically, and rinse the surface with water. Of course, you must remember to protect your eyes and skin.

Note! This method is only suitable for red ceramic brick, but not for silicate. Cleaning solutions contain acids that corrode it. But if aging and painting of silicate bricks are planned in the future, you can try it.

Restoration of old masonry

The most difficult question may be how to repair the brickwork if the brick crumbles and does not hold well in its place. A crumbling stone is subject to mandatory replacement, since moisture penetrates into the masonry through it, which will ultimately lead to larger-scale negative consequences.

Therefore, such bricks are removed from the wall, for which the seams around them are embroidered to the maximum depth with a chisel and a hammer or perforator.

If necessary, adjacent stones are also removed. Those that have not been destroyed should be tried not to hurt and left in place. After removing the defective elements, the surface is prepared for restoration as described above.

Note. It is rather difficult to match the new brick to the old masonry in terms of color and texture. It may have to be artificially aged with your own hands. How this is done will be discussed a little later.

The whole process looks something like this:

Image	Description
	After excavating the brick, we remove the remains of the mortar and dust from the resulting niche. Wet the surface.
	At the bottom of the niche with a layer of 1-1.2 cm we lay the solution.
	We dip the brick into the water, and on all faces, except for the bottom and front, we apply the solution.
	We install the stone in a niche and sink it, align it flush with the wall by tapping the mallet on the front edge.
	We remove the excess solution and embroider the seams.
	Rub the seams around the new element with a damp sponge.

The instruction at first glance is very simple, but in the process there may be surprises with destruction large plots masonry. If you are not sure that you can handle it yourself, it is better to invite a specialist.

Seam restoration

Quite often, the repair of the brickwork of buildings requires only the restoration of seams and the sealing of small cracks. To do this, you need to embroider them as deeply as possible with a hammer and chisel, clean them of dirt, moisten and fill with fresh mortar.

The question is which one exactly? The fact is that old walls can be built on lime mortar, which is “not friendly” with cement. In this case, you will have to prepare a similar one.

If you could not determine the composition of the old solution, prepare a mixture of the following components:

• White Portland cement - 1 part;
• Fine sand - 6 parts;
• Lime - 2 parts;
• Water.

Or use clay by pressing it into the seams with a block of wood of the appropriate thickness.

In the case of cement mortar masonry, you can take a ready-made cement-adhesive mixture and add a little gypsum to it. It compensates for the shrinkage of the seams and accelerates setting.

Deep seams should not be filled in one go - it is better to do it in stages, waiting for each layer to set. Excess solution from the surface is removed immediately, until it has set, with a wet sponge.

Upon completion of the repair work, it is desirable to treat the walls with a deep penetration primer, varnish or other protective agent.

Three Ways to Change the Look of a Brick Wall

Brickwork can become a highlight of the interior, if you work on it a little. Among the options for its transformation, the most popular are cladding, painting and artificial aging. The choice will depend on the initial quality of the surface and the style in which the entire room is designed.

Brick paneling

Often, even after professional repair old wall looks unsightly, although there are no complaints about durability. In the event that you do not want to lose the texture, but it was not possible to bring the surface into a decent appearance, you can veneer it with decorative panels that imitate masonry.

This can be a brick basement siding, PVC, MDF or gypsum panels, as well as clinker tiles or thin facing bricks. And thermal panels are perfect for finishing and insulating external walls.

The installation method for these materials is different:

• Wall panels are attached to the frame;
• Facing tiles are glued to the surface with glue.

See some examples of such materials and their applications:

Do not be afraid to experiment with materials, but always pay attention to their characteristics and scope. For example, brick basement siding can be used for interior decoration. But gypsum tiles for exterior cladding are not suitable.

Painting

You can save the relief by transforming the perception of space by painting the masonry. This technique is very common among designers, as it allows you to design a room in different styles, depending on the chosen color and method of painting.

But it should be remembered that subsequently it will be impossible to return the wall to its original appearance, getting rid of the paint layer. Therefore, before making this decision, think carefully and look at examples of such interiors.

Accent wall in the bedroom

Of great importance is the choice of finishing composition. When deciding how to paint a silicate brick outside, pay attention to the following paint characteristics:

• Waterproof. It should protect the facade from precipitation and humid air.
• Vapor permeability. The wall must "breathe", otherwise it will be damp, which will lead to mold.
• Resistant to fading under UV rays.
• Resistant to alkaline environments, since masonry mortar containing alkalis can destroy the coating.

For interior paints, the requirements are softer, so the choice is almost unlimited. The only thing that can upset you is the high price. But if instead of silicone or latex coatings you choose acrylic, or ordinary slaked lime, the result will be no worse.

Advice. The brick is very hygroscopic, therefore, before painting, the masonry must be treated with an acrylic-based penetrating primer. This will save on paint.

One more piece of advice. Don't paint new walls. It is necessary to wait at least a year for the leaching process of the solution to end, and the masonry to dry out and shrink. Before painting, the walls must be cleaned of dust, dirt, salt deposits and mold and dried.

Aging

Many interior solutions require you to turn a new, smooth and even masonry into an old one, battered by time. As you know, breaking is not building, and the task of how to age a brick wall is much easier to solve than the reverse.

To do this, use the following methods (all en masse or selectively):

• Surface treatment with abrasives- coarse sandpaper, a wire brush or even a sandblaster.

• The device of chips and cracks. They can be made along the edges and corners of a brick or on its faces in a chaotic manner. Tools - chisel and hammer, perforator.
• Imitation of efflorescence with white paint applied with a sponge or swab, also in random order. Or imitation of the remnants of plaster.

• "Soiling" of the surface. Excellent black spots and stripes that will not crumble and stain clothes are made with a blowtorch, with which the walls are burned until the color changes.

After such processing, the walls will need additional protection. So that they do not collapse and easily endure cleaning, they are coated with a special oil or water-based varnish.

Conclusion

Brick walls in the interior look very impressive if they are correctly “fitted” into the overall design style. Knowing how brickwork is repaired and visually transformed, you can also make your home design unique. And the video in this article will help you with this.

TYPICAL TECHNOLOGICAL CARD

REPAIR (RESTORATION) OF BRICKS

The technological map shows methods for repairing (restoring) brickwork that has lost solidity and a given bearing capacity due to cracks and voids, with the destruction of surface layers and wall cladding, which is in an emergency condition due to significant damage.

The scope of the map is indicated, provisions are given for the organization and technology of work, including repair materials, requirements for the quality of work, safety and labor protection rules.

The map was compiled and designed in accordance with the recommendations of the IBC 12-29.2006. This map is typical and can be applied both directly and adjusted to local conditions, with changes and additions to it.

The card is intended for design organizations, developing technological maps, as well as for construction and installation organizations performing repair (restoration) of brickwork.

The map was compiled by the employees of TsNIIOMTP (responsible performer Korytov Yu.A.).

Introduction

Introduction

Repair (restoration) of brickwork that has lost its design bearing capacity is classified as high-risk work and is carried out according to technological maps.

This technological map is typical and can be applied directly or adjusted to local conditions, with minimal changes and additions to it.

An individual map is developed on the basis of a typical brickwork structure for repair (restoration) for a given building (structure): walls, columns, foundations.

The map is also used as a document confirming the readiness of the construction organization to carry out work on the repair (restoration) of brickwork.

The map contains a brief description of brickwork damage requiring repair (restoration), as well as the most commonly used methods of repair and restoration of the bearing capacity of brickwork, ensuring the safety of work, helping to reduce the time and cost of work.

Due to the usually small volume and constraint of work, repairs are carried out using traditional paving tools, sets of manual machines and tools for dismantling and restoring brickwork, as well as for the production of related welding, concrete and other works.

This map should be used in conjunction with and simultaneously with the device project building structure, the brickwork of which is subject to repair (restoration).

The map was compiled and designed in accordance with the recommendations and rules of the IBC 12-29.2006 and consists of text and graphic parts. The graphic part is represented by schemes for the repair (restoration) of brickwork.

When developing the map, the results of the work of TsNIIOMTP and other institutions in the construction industry, as well as the production experience of Moscow construction organizations and firms, were used.

1 area of ​​use

The scope of this standard technological map is the repair (restoration) of brickwork of external and internal walls (piers), columns and foundations.

The masonry is made of building bricks: clay, silicate, slag. The card can be used for natural stone masonry not less than 150 and not more than 350 mm in size.

The card is used in the repair (reconstruction) of residential, civil and industrial buildings.

2. Damage to brickwork requiring repair (restoration)

During the service life, damages (defects) accumulate in brickwork: surface layers and lining are destroyed, cracks and voids appear and open more and more, local deformations (bulges, dents, shells, delaminations, separations, separations, loss of bricks, etc.) loss of solidity, weakening of the section and emergency condition.

In the brickwork of the walls, there may be the following damage.

Bulges in exterior masonry (may be the result of lateral earth pressure or ground water, temperature deformations, wall flexibility due to the rupture of intermediate connections along the height of the building).

Corner chips, shells, potholes, dents, etc. (they are the result of mechanical influences during operation: impacts, punching holes for various purposes, etc.).

Rust spots on the outer or inner surface of the masonry (indicate corrosion of reinforcement or steel embedded parts in the wall and loss of its solidity).

Peeling, cracking, swelling or peeling of the wall paintwork due to deformation or destruction of the masonry under the coating.

Cracking and (or) peeling of the plaster coating due to deformation or destruction of the masonry under the plaster layer.

Bulging, peeling, falling out of the elements of the cladding due to deformation or destruction of the masonry under the cladding.

Cracks in the form of a parabola, the branches of which diverge downward on both sides of the middle part of the building (they appear due to subsidence of soil in the middle part of the building).

Cracks in the form of a parabola, the branches of which diverge downward from the edges of the building (they appear due to subsidence of soil under the extreme parts of the building).

Cracks close to vertical, with approximately the same opening in height (due to subsidence of part of the building).

Vertical cracks crossing two or more rows of brickwork, horizontal and oblique cracks along the seams of the brickwork of ordinary lintels.

Vertical cracks in the middle of the span, horizontal cracks along the seams of masonry walls subject to horizontal loads, small cracks, possibly with chipping and crushing of bricks, under the supports of beams, trusses, lintels.

Horizontal stratification of masonry, possibly with a shift along the seams of individual sections or bricks, local masonry disorder, as a result of further development of cracks or destruction of the seam.

Peeling, weathering of the outer layer, decrease in density, friability of the structure, chipping and precipitation of particles.

Loss of individual or several bricks as a result of the development of cracks and delamination of masonry.

Masonry defects in junctions between walls, as well as between the wall and other structures: foundation, beams, trusses and slabs, ceilings and building covering.

The emergency state of the masonry is characterized by:

- Overhanging and losing contact with the wall, individual bricks or blocks in the masonry, facing tiles, peeling plaster and other elements that threaten to fall;

- deviation of the wall from the vertical within the premises by more than 1/200 of the height or 1/3 of the thickness;

- buckling of the wall up to 1/200 or more of the height of the deformable section or more than 1/3 of the thickness;

- cracks crossing four or more rows of masonry;

- local damage to the masonry to a depth of more than 2 cm;

- stratification and disorder of masonry.

The brickwork of the columns usually has damage in the places where the beams are supported on the columns, in the places where the vertical braces are attached to the columns and the columns to the under-columns, in the zones of possible impacts and dampening of the structures.

Repair (restoration) of brickwork is to eliminate the above damage (defects) of the masonry.

Repair work is carried out by certified masons.

The composition of the works considered in the map includes preparatory and basic work on the repair (restoration) of brickwork.

When developing the map, normative and methodological documents were used, the main of which are listed below.

Regulatory and methodological documents

3. Organization and technology of work on the repair (restoration) of brickwork

3.1 Preparatory work

3.1.1 Prior to the start of the main work, preparatory work must be carried out, and in particular, on the organization of the workplace and the safe performance of work.

A diagram of the work area is drawn up (not shown here), which shows the workplace, as well as places: for the reception and temporary storage of concrete (injection) and plaster mortars, for bricks and other building parts and materials, for installing a container for collecting brick waste, garbage.

The diagram shows a temporary fencing of the work area and workplace with a height of at least 1.6 m. The fencing design must comply with GOST 23407-78.

Exhibit warning signs of the danger of the production of repair (restoration) of masonry and related work.

The diagram shows the location of fire safety equipment (a stand with fire fighting equipment, a place for storing primary fire extinguishing equipment), the direction and sign of the speed limit for vehicles, and a gate.

3.1.2 Perform work related to equipping the workplace with small-scale mechanization, manual machines and tools, to create safe working conditions. Inspection and assessment of the technical condition of scaffolding, machines and tools, their completeness is carried out.

Workers are instructed on the procedure, methods and rules for the repair (restoration) of brickwork.

3.1.3 Workplace must be free from foreign objects, materials and debris.

The workplace is provided with temporary power supply, a source of compressed air for the operation of manual machines.

Entrance to the place of work for outsiders should be excluded.

3.2 Main works

3.2.1 For the repair (restoration) of brickwork, the following most common methods are used:

- injection of solutions into the masonry,

- laying (nabetonka) masonry (walls, columns, foundations),

- re-laying of damaged sections of masonry,

- replacement of wall cladding (columns),

- compression of masonry with clips.

3.2.2 Solutions are injected into the masonry to restore the solidity (bearing capacity) of the masonry, broken due to cracks, voids and shells in walls, columns, foundations, vaults and piers. The injection process is shown in Fig.1.

The mortar into the wall masonry from the mortar mixer (container with mortar) is pumped under pressure up to 0.6 MPa by a pump using an injector embedded in the masonry. The completeness of filling the masonry with mortar during the injection process is estimated by the area of ​​spreading of the mortar, its outflow from the masonry, by wetting the plaster. The completeness of filling with masonry mortar in the hardened state is determined by devices, for example, ultrasonic or by cutting out cores. The device shows the rate (degree) of attenuation of the ultrasound pulse, which depends on the density of the masonry. According to the cores in the construction laboratory, the compressive strength of the masonry (shear) is determined.

The density of the masonry (solidity and strength) increases due to the filling of cracks, voids and shells with a setting (gluing) solution.

The composition of the mortars used depends on the size of crack opening. When opening cracks up to 1.5 mm, solutions of the following compositions are prepared.

Polymer composition of epoxy resin type ED-20, modifier type MGF-9, hardener PEPA and finely ground sand in a ratio of 1:0.3:0.15:0.5.

Cement-polymer composition of cement, polymer type SKS65GP and finely ground sand in a ratio of 1:0.15:0.25.

When opening cracks of 1.5 mm or more, solutions of the following compositions are prepared.

Cement-polymer composition of cement, polymer type SKS65GP and finely ground sand in a ratio of 1:0.15:0.3.

Cement-sand composition of cement, a plasticizer such as sodium nitrite and medium-ground sand in a ratio of 1:0.05:0.3.

The composition of the solutions should be specified depending on the absorbency (humidity) of the masonry materials.

Samples are made from the prepared solution and their adhesive strength and compressive strength are determined in a construction laboratory.

The solution injection process is performed in the following sequence.

The masonry is prepared for mortar injection: cracks with an opening of more than 4 mm are cleared, blown with compressed air and sealed from the outside with a 1: 2 cement mortar; cracks with an opening of less than 4 mm are rubbed with a solution of the same composition.

Drilling points are marked on the masonry surface every 0.5-1.0 m in length and height.

Then, wells are drilled with an electric drill to a depth of 10-30 cm, but not more than half the thickness of the masonry. The diameter of the wells is assumed to be 14-15 mm (2-3 mm more than the outer diameter of the injector tube).

An injection tube with an outer diameter of 12 mm and a length of 15-20 mm is inserted into the well and sealed with epoxy or cement mortar. The injection tube is connected with a hose to the pump and the cracks and voids in the masonry are washed by pumping water.

After the release of clean water, the solution is injected. Injection is carried out first through the lower tubes until the solution flows out of the overlying tubes. After injection for 10-15 minutes, the pressure is reduced to zero, the installation is connected to the upper tubes and the injection process is repeated.

3.2.3 Applying (embedding) masonry on one or both sides is arranged to restore the bearing capacity of walls, columns and foundations.

The lining is made of the same brick as the main wall. The masonry is reinforced with meshes and frames. The thickness of the butt (from 120 to 380 mm) is determined by calculation. The solidity and joint work of the old masonry and lining is ensured by their constructive connections with the help of ligation of dowels, pins and through pins.

The device of a one-sided concrete block is shown in the section of the wall in Fig.2. Nabetonka 80-150 mm thick is made of B7.5-15 concrete, reinforced with meshes with a pitch of 100 to 150 mm and a diameter of 5-12 mm. The reinforcing mesh is fixed to the masonry with steel pins-dowels with a diameter of 6-10 mm, embedded in the M100 cement mortar into the seams or into drilled holes to a depth of 100-120 mm. The holes are drilled at a distance of 100 mm from the floor slab, the pitch of the dowel pins along the length and height is taken to be 600-700 mm.

With double-sided concrete, the masonry is reinforced with through studs with a diameter of 12-20 mm.

Nabetonka is carried out in layers by shotcreting or in a formwork with vibrating the concrete solution.

3.2.4 Relaying damaged sections of masonry is carried out in an emergency condition (significant damage and weakening of the section), if necessary, to preserve the interior, architecture of the building, if other repair methods are not economically feasible. Relaying is carried out after the installation of temporary fasteners and disassembly of the masonry. Fasteners rely on the perception of the load acting on the replaced masonry (column, wall, etc.).

The device for temporary fastening from a lintel and telescopic racks for laying the partition is shown in the example of Fig. 3.

In the main walls, cuts are cut out for a jumper from channel N 30. A jumper is installed in the cuts on cement-sand mortar M100. Jumper deformation is prevented by two telescopic racks. The masonry is dismantled in parts, weighing no more than 20-30 kg, manually or using a pneumatic hammer with an impact energy of not more than 40 J. The work is performed under the supervision of the foreman. At the same time, possible deformations, settlements and cracks are monitored and evaluated.

Waste and construction debris are transported to the container on inventory hand trucks with a carrying capacity of up to 200 kgf.

For new masonry, high-strength bricks and cement mortar of at least grade 150 are used. The masonry is reinforced with steel meshes, which are placed in horizontal seams. A snug fit of the top of the new masonry to the old one is ensured by caulking a gap of 30-40 mm with cement mortar. Temporary fasteners are dismantled, provided that the mortar of the new masonry has gained at least 50% of the design strength.

3.2.5 Replacing wall cladding (columns) is carried out in case of significant damage: deep cracks, chipping or falling out of bricks, collapse of cladding with an area of ​​​​more than 1 m. Replacement is carried out by arranging a constructive connection between the new facing brick and the old masonry. Constructive connection is provided by bandaging the rows, as well as with the help of steel meshes (frames) or wire reinforcement mustaches.

Replacing the cladding with a structural connection from the whiskers of the reinforcement is shown in Fig.4.

Steel pins-dowels with a diameter of 5-8 mm are embedded to a depth of 70-120 mm in masonry with a step of 600-800 mm. Reinforcing whiskers made of knitting or annealed wire 3-4 mm are attached to them. Facing is carried out from the same facing bricks or more durable on M100 cement mortar. The vertical gap between the old masonry and the new cladding is filled with cement mortar.

3.2.6 Compression of masonry (columns, piers, pilasters) with clips is used in case of significant masonry damage: deep cracks, crushing, chips, leading to loss of solidity. Compression is performed by arranging steel or reinforced concrete clips.

Before compression, as a rule, a mortar is injected into the masonry according to paragraph 3.2.2.

Repair of the masonry of the column by compression of the reinforced concrete clip is shown in Fig.5.

Reinforcement - from vertical rods with a diameter of 10-16 mm and horizontal ties (clamps) with a diameter of 6-10 mm along the perimeter of the column. Distances between horizontal connections - 150-200 mm. The thickness of the clip is taken, as a rule, from 80 to 120 mm. The concrete class (not lower than B12.5) must be higher than the brick class. Concreting is done in the formwork.

Repair of the pilaster masonry by compression with a steel clip is shown in Fig.6. The steel clip is made of corners and laths by welding or in another way. After installing the clip, the gap between the corners and the masonry is minted with M100 cement mortar. Coupling bolts (studs) with a diameter of 18-20 mm are passed through the wall, which are tightened with nuts with a force of 30-40 kN. Steel washers (plates) with a thickness of 10-12 mm are preliminarily placed under the nuts. The pilaster is crimped from four sides: a clip on three sides and a wall.

4. Quality requirements and acceptance of work on the repair (restoration) of brickwork

The quality of work is controlled throughout all technological operations.

Control should be exercised over the composition, sequence and mode of technological operations.

The quality of the repair is determined by the bearing capacity of the brickwork and its geometric deviations. The quality of the repaired (restored) masonry must not be lower than that of new masonry.

The bearing capacity of the masonry is determined by laboratory tests of masonry samples for compression, as well as strength calculations.

The bearing capacity of masonry restored by injection of mortars into the masonry is calculated as a monolithic masonry multiplied by the coefficients: 1.1 - for cement and cement-polymer mortars and 1.3 - for polymer mortar.

The bearing capacity of the masonry restored with an applied (concrete) is calculated as for multi-layer walls with a rigid connection between the layers.

The quality of masonry restored with clips is determined by the quality of welding, formwork, reinforcement and concrete laying works.

The quality of work on the dismantling of damaged sections of the masonry is assessed by the degree of safety (integrity) of the adjacent sections that are not dismantled, as well as the amount of work to create supporting surfaces and the subsequent sealing of grooves for temporary lintels. The degree of safety (integrity) of these masonry sections is assessed by the absence of cracks that may appear due to a violation of the operating mode (increased vibration impact loads), the absence of racks.

The quality of work is also assessed in terms of compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards in terms of dust formation, noise, and compliance with safety requirements.

5. Need for material and technical resources

The need for basic machines, tools, inventory and fixtures is shown in Table 5.1.

Table 5.1

6. Safety and labor protection

6.1 Works on emergency repair (restoration) of brickwork are classified as works of increased danger.

It is necessary to equip temporary fastenings for unloading masonry load-bearing structures (lintels and stops, using telescopic racks).

When organizing and conducting work, the requirements of the following regulatory documents must be met:

- SNiP 12-03-2001. "Labor safety in construction. Part 1. General requirements";

- SNiP 12-04-2002. "Labor safety in construction. Part 2. Construction production";

- GOST 12.4.011-89 "Means of protection for workers. General requirements and classification".

6.2 Fire safety at workplaces must be provided in accordance with the requirements of the "Rules for the fire regime in the Russian Federation", approved by Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of April 25, 2012 N 390.

6.3 The repair work area must be marked with danger signs and inscriptions of the established form in accordance with the requirements of GOST R 12.4.026-2001.

The fence must comply with the requirements of GOST 23407-78 and GOST 12.4.059-89.

The presence of unauthorized persons in the work area should be excluded.

6.4 Workers who have passed the introductory (general) safety briefing and safety briefing at the workplace are allowed to work.

The work is carried out under the direct supervision of the work manager.

6.5 Workers must be provided with overalls and protective equipment (respirator, goggles) in accordance with current regulations.

6.6 When repairing brickwork, one should take into account the possible effect of a hazardous factor (according to SNiP 12-04-2002) - spontaneous collapse of the masonry of a column, wall, partition.

In addition, the following potential hazards should also be considered:

- moving parts of construction manual machines,

- sharp edges and corners of bricks, broken reinforcement,

- increased content of dust in the air of the working area and noise during masonry dismantling.

6.7 When dismantling masonry and when removing waste, water dust suppression measures should be used. The dust content of the air outside the working area, measured by an IZV-5 device, must comply with sanitary standards and be no more than 0.3 mg/m.

Workers must work in protective helmets and goggles (shields), with respirators to protect respiratory organs from dust.

6.8 When performing masonry, as well as welding, reinforcing, formwork and concrete-laying works related to the repair, one should be guided by the safety rules for performing these works.

6.9 After completion of work, the working area and the surrounding area are cleaned.

Masonry waste and construction debris are transported in inventory hand trucks or otherwise in containers.

7. Technical and economic indicators

The work is carried out by a team of four workers: a repair worker - foreman, two repair workers and an auxiliary worker. The repair foreman supervises the work, coordinates the execution of work, performs and participates in the most critical operations, controls the safety and quality of work. Two repair workers with experience in the repair (restoration) of masonry and relevant qualifications perform the main amount of work under the guidance of a foreman. An auxiliary worker performs the following operations: clearing, blowing and chasing cracks, bringing materials to the workplace and other auxiliary work as directed by the foreman.

The qualifications of workers should allow, on the basis of interchangeability, to perform sequentially and (or) in parallel all the work (operations) to repair (restore) the masonry.

The complexity of repair work, for example, by the method of injecting a mortar into a masonry with an area of ​​10 m2, is:

- preparatory operations (clearing, blowing, cracking) - 2.4 man-hours,

- marking and drilling of wells - 3.5 man-hours,

- inserting injector tubes, setting up the installation - 8.9 man-hours,

- masonry washing with water - 4.3 man-hours,

- injection of mortar into the masonry - 9.8 man-hours,

- final operations (quality control, workplace cleaning, etc.) - 4.7 man-hours.

The calendar schedule for the implementation of these works with a volume of 10 m of masonry with one-shift sequential work of the brigade is given below.

(scope of work - 10 mmasonry area)

Calendar schedule for masonry repair by mortar injection
(scope of work - 10 mmasonry area)*

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* Form to fill. - Database manufacturer's note.

Do-it-yourself wall repairs in the house are done as needed. It is always necessary to repair brickwork when it is established that it is collapsing or deformed. Many factors can contribute to this, but all of them can be combined into large groups:

1. The effect of precipitation, as well as weathering. Moisture that enters with precipitation into small cracks in bricks and between them turns into ice in frost. At this point, the cracks widen, leading to the gradual destruction of the brickwork. The destruction is also facilitated by the water itself, which is in prolonged contact with the brick material. The result may be an element crumbled and dropped out of the wall. Cracks can be localized in only one brick, or they can go through several rows in the vertical direction.
2. Structural flaws. If construction works were carried out quickly to the detriment of quality, the technology was violated, or an incorrect calculation of soil displacements under the weight of the building was made, this can cause defective masonry. Probably, an erroneous calculation of the required foundation depth was made. There could be a discrepancy between the calculated load on the base and the actual weight of the house. As a result, huge cracks appear in the brickwork, which go into the heart of the wall. And sometimes even through cracks are obtained. In this case, the consequences can be the most deplorable.
3. Time is destructive for all the creations of mankind, and brick walls are no exception. Because, stone masonry will collapse under ideal conditions, but this process is very slow. Significant changes can be seen only after a few decades. To eliminate the problem areas that have appeared, they will have to be replaced or patched.

If it is possible to find weakened areas in the brickwork, then they must be repaired in sections. Make repairs to the walls according to the following scheme:

If the brick has not yet been crushed, and small cracks are visible in the wall, no more than 4 mm wide, then they are completely filled with masonry mortar. Do-it-yourself wall repairs should only be done if the crack is a dead end and will not exactly increase. To find out, before starting the restoration, you need to fix the plaster beacons. They are installed 30 days before the proposed work in two sections of the split (minimum narrow and maximum wide).

In the event that, after a month, the beacons are intact, they begin to repair the walls. If there was a gap, then you need to look for the cause of this phenomenon and deal with its elimination. If you immediately start laying, then all efforts will be in vain.

How to replace hopelessly damaged areas with your own hands

Areas of masonry that have been severely damaged should be removed and replaced with new stones. But it is unacceptable to start repairing walls on the move. The first step is to distribute the load of the overlying wall between entire sections of brickwork. To do this, beams are attached over the damaged section of the wall.

In the place where the installation of the beam is planned, a deep groove is made, into which a metal beam is inserted. Its fastening is carried out by anchors that penetrate deep into the masonry, and cement mortar. The beam must be supported with jacks or strong stands that are securely supported.

There is a situation in which the entire thickness of the masonry is subject to replacement. The right solution would be to remove the load from both sides of the wall. To do this, at least 5 days after the installation of the first, a second beam is mounted on the back of the masonry.

Wall repairs are carried out according to the instructions:

1. The entire damaged area of ​​\u200b\u200bbrickwork is removed.
2. The resulting surface is cleaned of brick fragments, mortar and washed with water to wet and remove dust.
3. New bricks are being laid.

So that the repair of the walls does not go unnoticed and the brick wall is preserved, it is necessary to follow the sequence of work and subsequently protect the masonry from water. To do this, after restoration, adjacent masonry joints are updated and the entire surface of the wall is treated with a composition with water-repellent properties.

How to increase the bearing capacity

Restoration of a brick wall is carried out in order to preserve and enhance the bearing capacity
designs. This can be done using different means:

1. Eliminate uneven settlement of the base of the house.
2. Installation of metal staples in case of cracks with a thickness of 10 cm or more.
3. Installation of steel plates on one or both sides.
4. Insert anchor locks for bricks.
5. Building a metal frame.
6. Increase in cross-sectional area.
7. Installation of clips made of metal or reinforced concrete.

If the building has significant masonry defects throughout the building, then the restoration of the brick wall begins with the installation of tightening belts that are in tension around the entire building.

When there are violations of the integrity of the masonry in the place where the junction of the floor slabs is located, it is necessary to mount metal rods or spacers. These means should create a horizontal stiffener. The efficiency of this method is very high, but its implementation requires good specialists and high costs. Therefore, it is used during the reconstruction of buildings.

From local methods we can name the following: the creation of a pillow of reinforced concrete at the junction of the plates.

How to strengthen brick lintels

To repair brickwork along the lintel, you need to do the following steps:

1. Remove deformed masonry elements.
2. Use masonry mesh to reinforce the top 3 joints.

Walls made of brick or stone are considered among the most durable. However, they also undergo destruction over time - they become covered with cracks, crumble and even break off. You should not leave such "surprises" unattended, otherwise you can miss the moment of irreversible destruction of load-bearing structures.

The process of destruction of structures can proceed almost imperceptibly and for quite a long time, or, conversely, be transient. It depends on many factors - errors in the calculations of the bearing load on the walls and foundation, the level of groundwater, geopolitical and atmospheric factors, for example, the location on the leeward side or next to a large body of water. Equally important is the craftsmanship of the builders. It is necessary to assess the extent of damage and find out the reasons that contributed to their occurrence even before the start of repair work, otherwise after a short time the problems will again not be long in coming.

Let's identify the root cause

Defects in masonry can occur due to structural and operational reasons, and, as already mentioned, due to construction and design errors.

The most expensive for owners country houses there will be miscalculations in architectural project building. An increase in the number of storeys of a building without strengthening the load-bearing structures, incorrect calculation of the impact on the ground of a building under construction next to an already built one (for example, a guest house, a bathhouse, etc.), redistribution of the load, leading to increased stress on small-section walls (windows, doors), inconsistency of applied building materials for a particular facility, for example, buildings over three floors, erected from foam blocks without strengthening the load-bearing bases or from sand-lime bricks - all these are high risk factors. They can provoke serious delamination of the masonry, up to the collapse of the walls.

The absence of the necessary qualifications from the builders will also cost a lot. It is not uncommon for brick walls to be painted with airtight solutions, such as oil paints, or inappropriate plasters are applied.

Of course, most masonry repair work cannot be done in the winter season, but it is better to invite a specialist, determine the reasons and outline a work plan in the off season. This will cost less, and allow you to start repairing immediately upon the onset of warm days.

A particularly dangerous factor that triggers a fairly rapid process of destruction are errors in the organization drainage system site - improper construction of drains, drains and blind areas around the building (or their complete absence) is guaranteed to lead to moistening of the foundation and subsequent freezing of the outer walls.

In addition to the above, the seams of almost any masonry are subject to "weathering" under the influence of atmospheric precipitation (wind, rain, snow, temperature changes). This reduces the heat-shielding characteristics of the walls and subsequently starts the process of slow destruction.

large-scale repair work it is better to produce only after receiving the conclusion of specialists, but you can replace part of the damaged masonry or process cracks yourself.

subtle touch

The most common defect stone walls there were and still are all sorts of cracks. Depending on their size, depth and length, the necessary repairs are carried out. So, thin cracks (shallow) are sealed with a liquid cement mortar. They are pre-cleaned of dust, dirt and particles of stone. The most convenient way to do this is with a special architectural tool called "skarpel" - in the form of a thin round rod, expanding at the end in the form of a sharpened spatula. Scarpel slightly widen the crack and remove dirt. Then the crack is cleaned of debris, dried and filled with a liquid solution using a mortar pump. In this way, blind cracks are closed.

For long wide cracks, you will need an anchor lock that will not allow them to spread further along the masonry. The lock can be a metal profile, which is fixed in the wall with anchors at opposite ends of the crack.

Next, the hole is sealed with a thick solution. Often, thin but long cracks require three or more locks. In this case, it is worthwhile to assess in detail the degree and speed of destruction, otherwise the anchors can provoke even greater delamination of the masonry.

Chipped sections of brick or masonry are repaired in a similar way. With the help of a scarpel, a hammer, a crowbar, a pickaxe or a jumper, in the places of repair, completely remove a unit of brick or stone in which damage is found, as well as one or two around it, and new ones are installed in their place in the form of a lock (with a snake, zigzag, not a friend after another). Walls with a tendency to rapidly collapse, on which wide short cracks form, are additionally strengthened, for example, with T-shaped metal anchors driven into the masonry. This will allow for a long time to stop the "spreading" of the masonry.

Now it's serious

Significant destruction of the walls will require, at a minimum, strengthening the existing masonry, and ideally, an accurate assessment of the causes and a number of measures to eliminate their occurrence.

Deep cracks with a tendency to grow will require additional hardening. For this, "injections" of cement mortar are used. A jumper (less often a drill) makes several holes into which a solution is pumped using an injector from a gas pipe (approximately 1.25 - 1.87 mm in diameter). After the mortar has hardened, the crack is laid with new bricks of the "castle" type.

The masonry is dismantled from left to right, starting from the upper horizontal seam. To start work, it is necessary to draw up a plan for dismantling the masonry.

Wide and extended damage to the masonry, especially if the wall is folded into more than one brick, is repaired sequentially. To do this, each part of the masonry is disassembled, replaced with a new one, dried, and then proceed to the next section.

Wall damage is often caused by improperly executed jointing, in which moisture accumulates inside the masonry and gradually destroys the base. Restoration of seams in this case is quite possible to perform even without special skills. The crumbling and unreliable parts are removed with a scarpel, the seams are cleaned until the solution stops pouring, and cleaned. Next, the holes are sealed with mortar flush with brick or stone. This method will not allow moisture to accumulate in the seams. For this purpose, a lime-cement mortar is used (lime absorbs water, and cement repels), it is more plastic and stronger than ordinary cement.

Do not add salt

How to check how fast the masonry collapses?

There is an easy way. They take special gypsum plates - beacons with a date, which are fixed on the wide and narrow places of the crack. Displacement, rupture of one of the plates within 10-20 days indicates that there is a fast and, most likely, even dangerous process of wall destruction.

The factors that destroy the masonry, which, however, are often not paid due attention, include efflorescence - water-salt solutions protruding on the surface of the brick. Their appearance testifies to the mistakes made in the organization of the waterproofing of the facade, as a result of which salt comes to the surface of the brick and corrodes it.

The reason may also be poor-quality building materials, with incorrect proportions of lime, hardening accelerators and salt.

To remove efflorescence, the surface of the facade is cleaned of salt with a brush, washed with a solution of acetic acid, ammonia or a special detergent. However, complete cleaning of white stains on the walls, unfortunately, will not solve the problem radically. In the future, the process of salt crystallization will occur inside the masonry, and due to humidity, fungal infection will also join it. To prevent this from happening, the masonry is treated with a water repellent - a solution that fills the pores of a brick or stone and gives them water-repellent properties. Water repellents are applied to a clean, dry surface with a roller or sprayer and left for a day, making sure that the facade does not get wet during this time. The use of hydrophobic impregnations allows you to almost permanently get rid of efflorescence, and, in addition, actively protect against fungus, cracks and destruction. Hydrophobization is carried out exclusively in the warm season.