The house, according to the saying, is a fortress, but there are misfortunes from which it is better to hide not in this fortress, but far away or, more precisely, deeper - for example, in your own family bunker. Especially for those who are afraid of natural disasters and generally take their own safety seriously, the RIA Real Estate website decided to prepare material on how to build a shelter on a suburban area on their own.
No bureaucracy required
First of all, experts note that to build a small shelter on your own site, you do not need to draw up special documents. However, this only works if there are no centralized communications under the site that can be damaged during the construction of the bunker. It is advisable to find out before starting construction.
We measure the level ground water
So that it does not happen that during the construction the underground bunker turned into a pool of water, you need to find out at what depth the groundwater passes. This, according to the chief architect, project manager of the company "Main Bureau architectural solutions"Nikolai Matveev, you can, in principle, do it on your own: just pay attention to the water level in nearby wells or pay attention to water bodies or rivers that are nearby. The difference between the surface of the water, for example, in a well, and the surface level land plot and will be an approximate indicator of the depth of groundwater.
You can also seek advice from neighbors who have their own water wells in the areas, since when they are drilled, the depth of groundwater is determined more accurately.
Of course, you need to build a bunker above the groundwater level by at least 50 centimeters. For example, if the groundwater on the site flows at a depth of 4 meters, then the depth of the pit should be no more than 3.5 meters, says Matveev. But the expert emphasizes that the ideal depth of the bunker is 4 meters, therefore, in the case of a closer occurrence of groundwater, it is unlikely that it will be possible to build a good shelter, otherwise it will be uncomfortable, and therefore non-functional.
Location
It is important to choose the right place for the construction of the bunker. Some homeowners prefer to build a bunker right under the house, almost in the basement. But experts do not agree with such a location. It is better to equip such a shelter at some distance from the house, since in the event of, for example, a strong hurricane or earthquake, the main building can be destroyed and its debris will block the exit from the bunker, says Sergey Kudryavtsev, managing partner of PRIDEX.
The location of the shelter under the house is possible only if there are separate exits from it within a radius of 15 meters from the building of the house, Matveev adds. In addition, communication systems should be autonomous and not connected in any way with the systems of the house, he emphasizes.
Moreover, the entrance to the shelter, according to the expert, is better to veil. “For example, it can be placed on the side of a wooden outdoor toilet or a shed for storing tools. Usually such structures are in the garden among plants and trees, which makes the penetration into the bunker the most invisible to the surrounding eyes,” says Matveev.
Taking measurements
Before proceeding with the construction of the bunker, you need to calculate its area. Considering that a hurricane or earthquake shelter is not designed for long-term human habitation, you can limit yourself to 3 square meters per person, which will provide quite adequate conditions in case of danger. For an average family, the area of such a room will be 9-12 "squares", - says Kudryavtsev.
Short stay bunker
If the bunker is built exclusively for short stays, in case of natural disasters, then the most rational solution is to use a septic tank made of impact-resistant plastic dug into the ground, Kudryavtsev argues. Such a solution will be quite enough to wait out the hurricane, and on the other hand, this is a durable structure that does not require significant funds to maintain it in proper condition, the expert argues.
Moreover, such a design does not require any complex engineering solutions, whether it be ventilation or heating. For a small shelter, natural ventilation is enough: in fact, these are two pipes leading to the surface, Kudryavtsev assures. Specialized air purification systems for such a shelter are also not needed. You can limit yourself to a standard dust-proof ventilation filter, which you can make yourself from gauze or fiberglass, the agency’s interlocutor notes.
Power supply, he said, may include connecting the facility to central networks and creating a reserve of batteries and accumulators in case of emergency.
According to Kudryavtsev, it makes no sense to implement a serious heating system: the ground rarely freezes to a depth of more than 1 meter, while the very concept of a shelter does not provide for a long-term stay. "I think that in this case it makes sense to limit yourself to a stock of warm clothes, thermal underwear and other camping accessories," the expert argues.
“On average, a high-quality septic tank with a capacity of 18 cubic meters will cost about 300 thousand rubles. Whereas land work does not require special preparation, and it is quite possible to implement it on your own. In the case of using hired labor, the cost of such work is unlikely to exceed 50 thousand rubles,” says PRIDEX Managing Partner.
Bunker long stay
For those homeowners who have a thorough approach to security issues and want to arrange a bunker in which you can hide for a long time not only from bad weather, but also from a chemical attack, Matveev advises building a bunker with an area of 12 square meters with a separate technical room of 2-3 square meters, where the power generator and dry closet will be placed.
The construction of the shelter begins with a pit, and when it is dug out, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the walls and the height of the foundation of the future bunker and, accordingly, make "allowances" for them. So, for example, the thickness of the brick walls will be 25 centimeters, and the thickness of the foundation slab will be 23 centimeters. The walls of the pit during the construction period must be reinforced with logs and boards in order to avoid collapse of the soil or soil.
Before pouring the foundation slab, it is necessary to prepare the base by leveling and strengthening the bottom of the pit with 20-30 centimeters of crushed stone or sand, Matveev instructs. To enhance the strength of the base, it is better to reinforce the foundation floor with reinforcement and knitting wire. After pouring concrete, it is advisable to wait 10-15 days for it to harden and become durable, the expert emphasizes.
After the foundation has completely dried, you can proceed to the device of the walls. Matveev recommends using a white solid brick with reinforcement of the masonry every 3 rows with a metal mesh or wire. The thickness of the masonry can be half a brick. The height of the masonry must be at least 2.2 meters.
The next step is the construction of the roof. The architect proposes to cover the roof from a metal I-beam, covering it from above with boards 4 centimeters thick and metal sheets 2 centimeters thick. For roof waterproofing, according to Matveev, 2 layers of dense polyethylene are suitable. After that, the bunker is covered with earth. The entrance to the bunker is equipped with a tightly closed airtight hatch door and a wooden ladder for descent. You can make a hermetic door yourself by laying, for example, strips of insulation from a rubber tube. In addition to the main entrance, the bunker device must also have an emergency exit in case the main manhole is blocked, the expert notes.
To waterproof the shelter from the inside, before finishing, it is necessary to coat the walls and floor with waterproofing.
At the end, half-brick internal partitions are erected to equip the engine room with a separate door.
The estimated cost of such a do-it-yourself bunker will range from 75 to 130 thousand rubles, Matveev notes.
Engineering and household equipment
In order to hold out in the bunker from 12 hours to several days, it is necessary to provide an independent power supply source and an external ventilation duct with air filters to prevent poisonous substances and dust from entering there. However, it is also possible to equip the bunker with an internal air conditioning system with air regeneration, but this will cost much more than conventional "external" ventilation, Matveev notes. The cost of such a system starts from 100 thousand rubles. However, this will be the only significant line of expenditure in the construction of the shelter.
According to the architect, a generator running on gasoline or diesel fuel is suitable as an autonomous energy source system. Accordingly, the bunker should always have a canister with a supply of fuel for it, say, 10 liters.
To save space, sleeping places in the bunker are arranged in the form of bunk beds.
strategic reserve
The main strategic reserve in the bunker, according to Matveev, is water, it needs to be stored as much as possible - 200-300 liters. Food should be canned, it is also a good idea to stock up on various cereals - they are nutritious and have a long shelf life.
The first aid kit should include septic tanks, bandages, cotton wool, adhesive plasters, a thermometer, scissors, a rubber heating pad and gauze masks. In principle, each family can determine a set of medicines independently, focusing on the state of health of each of the household members, but it is better to include heart drugs, painkillers and drugs to normalize bowel function in the list.
Finally, in addition to warehouses with food and medicines, the bunker should have everything necessary in order to conduct "reconnaissance" sorties to the surface. These items include gas masks, protective clothing and a flashlight, Matveev adds.
The house is considered the protective fortress of every person. Within the framework of this conditional concept, many began to think about more reliable buildings. The question arises of how to build a bunker. It is located underground, nothing better to invent. If a person is afraid of natural disasters and just tries to be in a protective place, there is special projects such a structure.
You can erect it on your site, often this is done in the country. There are a number of advantages to this shelter, although it does not always save. If you decide to build, you will have to take as a basis useful instructions and implement the project on it. There are no difficulties, only all the tools and material are being prepared, because the underground house has its own construction features. What exactly are the features, we will consider further.
There will be no paperwork
Thinking about how to build a bunker, many take into account this issue. Should there be any paperwork? The first plus, according to experts, is that it is not required to prepare documentation, to obtain permission for such a structure. But this is provided that everything is done on a personal site. Although there is an exception. If there are communications of central importance under the soil, it is more difficult to make a bunker. During the construction, damage can be inflicted, and this is a serious violation.
Before you build a bunker, all these questions should be clarified. This is the first step towards building protective housing. One cannot do it alone, so an assistant must be present, and preferably not one. Only after that the main work begins. It is important to take into account the proximity of groundwater during construction.
proximity to groundwater
Before you build a bunker, you will have to understand at what level the groundwater is. If this is overlooked, then you will get not a living space, but a large pool. To do this, it is important to know at what depth the waters are. But is it possible to perform such procedures on your own? According to experts, the process is not so complicated: attention is directed to the nearest wells, any reservoirs. The difference between the level of land and water will become the principle of the occurrence of groundwater flows. Do accurate calculations not difficult, it is important not to rush at this stage. The instructions for performing the work are elementary - everyone who creates their own in-depth dwelling must come to this goal with certain knowledge.
Opinion of architects with experience
Another assistant is deep water wells. In the process of their creation, it is more clear at what level the ground flows go.
The house underground must form above the streams, the minimum distance is 50 centimeters. The bigger, the better. Here is the calculation: if the groundwater is at the level of 5 meters, then the foundation pit for the new building is 4.5 meters. Although when groundwater is above 4 meters, it will not work to create a full-fledged house underground. Because attention is paid to comfort, protection, convenience of existence for a long time. Reliability is not in last place, so every little thing will have to be calculated.
How to choose a place?
Many people think about how to choose the base and calculate the depth of the bunker. Sometimes there are ideas of building a shelter under the house, in the basement. Architects believe that this idea is bad and should not be implemented. And all because there are cataclysms - a hurricane, winds, flooding. The main structure will collapse, and the entrance to the underground shelter will be thrown by fragments. Will have to look for something more suitable. If the size of the site allows, construction begins.
Although such a structure is allowed, if there is an additional entrance to the bunker, at a distance of up to 10 meters from the house. Communication is essential for a fulfilling life. If they are autonomous the best solution. Communications should not have a connection with the house; in the event of a collapse, there will be no electricity supply to the bunker. This is emphasized by all architects and specialists in the construction of residential premises.
In addition, you will have to hide the entrance. It is located in the place of outbuildings on the site. Often the construction of a do-it-yourself bunker is carried out precisely from the entrance. Let him be in the garden among the trees and shrubs. It will not be visible to anyone - only the owners will know how to get into their underground home.
What is the area?
An important point of each dwelling is to verify the dimensions. It is based on the fact that people will stay in it for a short period of time. For the period of a natural disaster, a hurricane, such a calculation of the area is made - 4 m2 per resident. Under these conditions, it will be comfortable to wait out adverse conditions on the surface of the earth.
If there are three people in the family, then it turns out 12 m2, it is not difficult to implement such a project. The calculation is carried out by multiplication. If the territory at the house is large, then the area increases, but not to the detriment of comfort. Bunkers build temporary and long-term residence. This depends on the choice of some parameters.
small period
Architects believe that in order to be inside the shelter for a short period of time, a septic tank made of durable material may well be suitable. What is being done:
- A durable container is purchased.
- Buried in the ground, at a certain distance.
- The size is calculated taking into account arrivals.
You can wait out a hurricane and a tornado in it, and additional care is not required for many years. There is no need to invest in this building, install ventilation and heating. For air extraction, two natural ventilation pipes leading to the surface are enough. It is not necessary to supplement the structure with special cleaning devices.
You will need to install a standard cleaning filter. Sometimes it is done by hand. Gauze, glass wool are purchased - they are fixed on pipes. Electricity is connected to the main system. It is worth making batteries so that the supply is for a long period.
Heating
This is an open question. Because the earth does not freeze more than one and a half meters. For a temporary stay, maximum heat is not required. Experts advise having a stock:
- Warm things.
- Blankets.
- Plaidov.
- Thermal underwear.
The price of such a shelter is within 400 thousand rubles. The required volume of the septic tank is 19 m3, the preparation of the pit will not be long, and everyone will cope with it quickly. It is easy to hire workers, for about 30 thousand rubles.
For a long time inside
Before building a long-term underground bunker, it is worth considering each room. Its total area is not less than 15 m2. A separate room is provided for the location of generators and other necessary components.
For such a structure, drainage is done under the foundation. It should be at least 25 centimeters, and the wall - 27. To prevent the soil from creeping, reinforcement is made using affordable, inexpensive material. The bottom of the pit, before starting construction, is leveled. After the foundation has dried, after 30 days they begin to build walls. For reliability, reinforcement should be fixed every three rows. The size of the drainage under the foundation is created arbitrary.
The roof must be secure. Durable metal is used. We must not forget about heat and waterproofing. A ladder for descent and a tightly closing door are mounted. In order not to call such a shelter a trap, an emergency exit is made. Before you start interior decoration, it is worth creating a strong, high-quality waterproofing for the walls. There are many materials for this. Next, a partition is made between the main housing and the engine room. The cost will be within 150 thousand, if you do it yourself.
In order to stay in such a protective shelter for several days, it is worth considering:
- Autonomous electricity. A generator that runs on diesel or gasoline is suitable. Two-tier installations are made for fuel storage.
- Ventilation with air filtration.
- Conditioning. Due to this, air is supplied with cleaning, the installation cost is high.
Stocks
If the stay involves several days, then you can’t do without supplies. One of the important components is water (at least 300 liters). The number of people matters. It is important to have canned food, cereals, other products packaged and with a long shelf life.
You can't do without a first aid kit. It consists of:
- Bandage, adhesive tape.
- Cotton wool.
- Thermometer, tonometer.
- Scissors, tourniquet.
- Masks, heating pad.
A set of tablets is inserted individually. Be sure to have painkillers and antipyretics. In the presence of chronic deviations from health, you need to put more auxiliary drugs. Since nutrition will deviate from the norm, digestion tablets are required.
What else counts?
In addition to food, first aid kit, it is required to create conditions for comfortable rest and sleep. Clothes are interchangeable, but the main thing is that you can go out into the light. If chemical exposure is implied, then personal protective equipment is indispensable - gas masks, protective clothing, a flashlight. The last item on the list of important things will come in handy for indoor moving to save electricity.
Conclusion
To fully be in the bunker, you need to create conditions for yourself on an individual basis. Each person gets used to his own - food, warmth, general atmosphere. Today, such buildings are in great demand. It is not difficult to build them, even without experience. But if you do everything alone, this process will drag on for a long time.
- If you're not aware of the condition of the soil in your area, it's a good idea to take this into account before you consider building a shelter, because the soil can be very thick in the rainy season and thin as fluff in the dry season. The hole must be dug at an angle outward so that it does not collapse on you. Some areas have soil as hard as dry clay, while other areas have calcium carbonate, which is something comparable to good strong clay soil. This soil will allow you to dig a hole straight down with less chance of collapse. Here you can save on framing material. You can use mud as a backup base for cement. Areas where the ground is softer and more dangerous to work on need high cover if you don't have another place to pit. Another problem in small areas when working with very soft soil is if you dig too close to neighbors' property. Their house may crack, and you may be punished for it. Masonry underground or a block of concrete is a big project considering the cost of materials and finding a solid plan. Millions were spent developing such plans during the Cold War, they were tested in a special area, so they are the number one choice. Unfortunately, many of them are no longer in print, but they can be found in e-books at www. first patriot press. You don't have to go into debt to build a shelter. With the help of a list of materials and an old pickup truck with several bags of cement, you can gradually collect the necessary materials by stacking them near the house in a short time. It's always a good idea to buy minus 10% off your list so you don't end up with a bunch of unnecessary stuff. If you're hiring a contractor to do some work, buy 100% of what you need so contractors don't run around and buy more materials and demand money for it. So that you do not pay for the work of three men, not one. If the contractor needs something, then he will have to break off work and go to him to buy something. Labor is the most an expensive commodity at the job site, so if you are missing a few pieces of plywood, always go to the nearest store to buy the necessary materials. Three or four people who will be idle while you drive to the other side of town to save a couple of dollars is just stupid. You can build the shelter yourself, but it's a hefty project. Buy plastic rebar in case you trip and fall, because a piece of rebar sticking out can kill you if you fall on it. The bending of the rebar is done by bending the rigid pipe on the crossbar by 5 cm. Press your foot on the base, lift the pipe and you will have a fairly square corner. Cutting reinforcing bars is easier than working with a saw, but you can do it with a hacksaw. Make a cut half way and put your foot on the side of the cut and it will break when you lift it up. This will save you from cutting the plank all the way.
- Remember to stock up on food, water, and preferably omega-3s, calcium, and multivitamin tablets. Make sure there are no windows or holes in the piece of plywood and that most of your shelter is underground. Existing basements or cellars will require additional shielding. Here are the minimums to be followed: 10 cm of concrete, 12-15 cm of brick, 15 cm of sand (bags or boxes, it doesn't matter) can be filled with earth as a side support, 17 cm of earth, 20 cm of hollow cinder blocks filled with earth or sand if something else is not available (12 cm if with sand), 25 cm of water, 35 cm of books/magazines or 45 cm of wood. Make sure you have plenty of food and water, canned food, or any other food that won't spoil. Ready-to-eat meals are also recommended.
- First aid kit. Be sure to have a wide range of drugs, and not just a set of ambulance medicines. Here is what the first-aid kit should contain according to the recommendation of the Ministry of Defense:
- Sterile gauze bandages 10x17 cm
- Compress and bandage 5x5 cm 4 strips
- Bandage gauze compress type 7 cm x 6 m
- 3 five-meter rolls of 2 cm and 5 cm wide gauze bandage
- Compressed bandage 93x93x132 cm
- Gauze, petrolatum 7x66 cm 3 strips
- Adhesive tape 2 cm x 1 m 100 strips
- Adhesive plaster 1x7 cm 100 strips
- Eye wash
- Ammonia solution for inhalation, aromatic ampoules (1/3cc, 10 units)
- Povidone-iodine without iron, 10% 1.4cl
- Bicarbonate mixture sodium chloride (salt)
- Surgical razors/scalpels
- Instructions for use and maintenance.
- The following are particularly recommended medications that should be included, although some may require a doctor's approval (many of which can be used to treat symptoms of radiation sickness):
- Tweezers
- Compazine suppositories (for nausea and vomiting)
- Opium tincture (for diarrhea)
- Antacid tablets (for indigestion)
- A bottle of aspirin (minor pain)
- Narcotic (severe pain)
- Other non-essential items you should have:
- Sleeping bags
- Plenty of warm clothing and blankets (when you are outside the shelter) and light clothing when you are inside
- Sunscreen and lotion
- Toiletries
- Sunglasses
- Flashlights and batteries
- Radios and walkie-talkies (not mobile phones, the EMP (electromagnetic pulse) from the explosion will be useless for a while, so you won't get any signals)
- Self-powered flashlights and radios sealed in aluminum foil or other metal so that EMPs won't disable them. Batteries will be very hard to come by after a nuclear attack, for obvious reasons, so make sure the power is off.
- torches
- Candles. Use only if there is no gas leak nearby; explosive gas.
- Glowing sticks
- waterproof matches
- Chimneys
- Compass
- Chalazon water purification tablets (they won't filter out radiation, only pathogens!)
- Needles and threads
- Canvas
- A weapon for self-defense, preferably a pistol.
- Ax/Cutter, Hand Saw, Crowbar, Leather Knife, Combat Knife and Cutlery. (Don't forget to bring a whetstone or grinder to sharpen sharp objects.)
- Pencil, paper and anything to pass the time
- Copy of this article
The saying "my house is my fortress" is true only during a well-fed measured life. Escape from truly serious dangers in your home will not work. Stray bullets in the shootout of marauding gangs, air bombs, rockets, mortars and shells will break through the walls. Flying during the confrontation of regular armies, they will get you within the dwelling no worse than on the street. Therefore, such bright events, as well as the attacks of the living dead during the zombie apocalypse or the attack of aliens, it is better to wait in a more reliable place. Two characteristics are important here: strength and inconspicuousness. Under these parameters, a compact cozy bomb shelter disguised in a garden or near housing, dug and equipped with their own hands, is suitable.
The bunker is convenient only because you don’t have to run far to get to it and a limited circle of people will know about it. The latter ensures that, while fleeing from shelling, you will not have to face uninvited guests who have come to get free supplies from your shelter. After all, it will not be easy to drive out such guys, especially if they are armed.
Relevance of the problem
The possibility of an alien or zombie attack can only be considered as a joke or plot for the next blockbuster. But local conflicts and wars, man-made disasters and natural disasters are the reality of our world. The history of mankind is the history of wars. Among all living creatures on the planet, only man has made intraspecific killings a systemic and socially encouraged action. Therefore, one cannot think that the 21st century is very different from the enlightened 20th and all previous ones.
People still, with pleasure or forced, participate in hybrid and declared wars, interethnic conflicts and other activities to kill their own kind. If there is no desire to become an accidental victim of such a "carnival", take care in advance of the presence of a solid bomb shelter. Otherwise, later, when everything starts, it remains to rely only on luck. Under the whistle of mines, perhaps there is a chance to have time to dig a trench. But there is no way to build and equip your own bomb shelter in accordance with all the rules.
In addition to hostilities, it will help to survive the consequences of a leakage of a "peaceful atom" from the nearest (or distant) nuclear power plant or the achievements of the chemical industry, which will suddenly be sprayed into the air due to an accident of worn-out factory equipment.
At the very least, if the catastrophe does not happen and the end of the world does not come, you will become the happy owners of a wine cellar, from which you will not be expelled either by your wife and mother-in-law, but even by a company of soldiers.
Project Basics
The element defining reliability of the bunker - strong doors. They must withstand the action of the shock wave. Therefore, the entrance design is calculated for load resistance, at least 1.5-2 times more than it should be for normal ceilings according to SNiP.
In order for the intensity of the shock wave to decrease when approaching the doors, an expansion chamber must be provided in front of the entrance. Perhaps, few people will be able to build a bomb shelter with doors like in the famous Fallout series. But, as they say, "do your best, but it will turn out badly." Therefore, the exit from the bunker room to the expansion chamber must have a damper with two shutters. The cleanliness of the environment inside depends on how tightly they close when the air is polluted during a chemical, bacteriological or nuclear attack.
Another important entry requirement: there must be at least two of them. In this case, if the shock wave damages the doors or covers them with blockage, the shelter will not become a grave dug for you with your own hands. And the calculation here should go only on their own strength. In case of serious problems, you should not rely on large rescue teams with dogs to search for victims and equipment to clear the rubble. There is an option that the situation will be simple: every man for himself.
The emergency exit must be at least 20 centimeters above the groundwater level. If these standards cannot be met, the exit must be a sealed shaft, protected from water penetration. Otherwise, the construction of their own bomb shelters can only be compared with digging wells for watering the site.
The ventilation ducts of the bomb shelter are equipped with filters, and uninterruptible power supplies and generators are installed there to provide electricity. It is better to select alkaline batteries for the UPS. They have a particularly long lifespan. The exhaust system of the generator should not be connected to the air in the shelter, it needs a separate ventilation duct and, preferably, a room. Otherwise, carbon monoxide will deal with the inhabitants of the bunker faster than shells or radiation.
bureaucratic formalities
When you decide to make a bomb shelter on your own site with your own hands, you do not need to deal with the issuance of permits and coordinate the project at the mayor's office or, God forbid, the military registration and enlistment office. The only thing you need to take care of is the safety underground utilities that can pass through your territory. During the construction of the shelter, not a single cable, water or gas pipeline should be damaged. Therefore, try to make sure that they are absent even before construction begins.
The lack of formalities is fraught with another problem: it will not be possible to officially register the bunker as a yard building. Therefore, when selling a summer house or a house with a plot, there may be problems with representatives of the BTI. In this case, hiding the shelter will come in handy no less than during the invasion of hordes of zombies or marauders. For the same reason, try not to advertise your construction site to your neighbors. In peacetime, they will gladly “surrender” you to the BTI, and in wartime - to those who will benefit from doing this.
ground water
The swimming pool in the garden area is definitely a nice and useful addition. But this is only if we are not talking about an underground pool, which the bunker can turn into due to groundwater. Therefore, it is worth measuring their level before you start designing a bomb shelter on your own site.
You do not have to order geo-prospecting services. Just look at the depth of nearby wells. The distance from the surface of the earth to the water level is the very desired level. It can be determined more precisely by paying attention to water wells. Just do not need to measure artesian for this: the depth of water is necessary in a conventional well "on the sand". Don't have your own well or well? Ask your neighbors. But do not explain to them why you really need it. Refer to the desire to build your own source of drinking water. By the way, if you are really concerned about survival, it will come in very handy. As practice shows, the central water supply in cities often disappears much earlier than enemy bombs and shells begin to explode on their territory.
It is necessary to build a shelter so that it is located at least 50 centimeters above groundwater.
Important: sufficient strength of the room can be ensured by deepening it by at least 4 meters. If, however, this cannot be done due to groundwater, it remains to build a shallow basement. All the same, it is much better than trying to escape in a country house or in a cellar with pickles and potatoes.
Localization
One of the best options for the location of the bunker is right under the house. In this case, its main entrance will be securely hidden from prying eyes, which will provide additional security. Another extremely important advantage of this arrangement is that it makes it possible to hide in a bomb shelter during the shelling. Running out of the house to take refuge in a shelter, even if it is 15 meters from the dwelling, is not just unwise. It's suicidal. The walls of the house provide excellent protection against fragments of mines and shrapnel, which are filled with multiple rocket launchers. Therefore, if the shelling caught you not in a shelter, you need to lie down in the folds of the terrain, and not risk making your way under a hail of fragments.
So, having a bunker under the house is very nice. But when a projectile hits, during an earthquake or hurricane, the building can collapse and the entrance to the bunker will be blocked. For this, emergency tunnels leading to the surface will come in handy. Their exits must be located at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from ground buildings. Whatever happens, the equipment of your bomb shelter must provide complete autonomy and independence from the communications of a residential building.
At the stage of calculating the location of the bunker, the issue of masking inputs and outputs should be finally resolved. You can make them in the form of an outdoor toilet, light barn for tools, a garage or even a dog house. The latter can only be used as an emergency exit disguise. You will not be able to enter through it without attracting the attention of neighbors.
Hopper size
The size of the shelter depends on its purpose and the number of people. For a short stay during a hurricane, 3 m2 per person is enough (9-12 "squares" per family). If you plan to live in it for a while, you will have to build a much larger room. You can make a preliminary layout, drawing or diagram to determine the location of the equipment and other nuances.
short stay shelter
To protect against natural disasters (of course, not from floods), a bunker from a plastic tank for a septic tank is suitable. Its impact-resistant material will feel great in the ground. A preliminary design of such a structure is not even required. The price of a container with a volume of 18 cubic meters (which will give an area of 9 m2) is approximately 300 thousand rubles. Land work can be done independently or hire equipment. In the second case, the estimate will increase by another 50 thousand. No special engineering structures not required. It is enough to make a simple ventilation system from two pipes with a dust filter made of gauze or fiberglass. Rechargeable flashlights and an uninterruptible power supply are sufficient for lighting and power supply. You can store a small supply of batteries there, which will be used in lighting and electrical appliances. Lamps should only be LED, as their energy consumption is 10 times lower than that of incandescent devices.
A heater is not needed - the ground does not freeze at a depth of more than a meter, and you won’t have to stay in such a bunker for a long time. It is better to fold thermal underwear, warm clothes and hiking gear.
Shelter for a long stay
If you expect to escape not only from bad weather, but from more serious and prolonged cataclysms, you will have to start building a spacious bunker. In it, it will be possible to wait out days of shelling, the consequences of an accident at a chemical plant, or a short-lived triumph of aliens until Bruce Willis deals with them.
The size of such a bomb shelter should be appreciably larger than the septic tank suggested in the previous section. It should consist of "residential" and "technical" premises. The first should be equipped as much as possible for existence, in the second one should place a generator and a dry closet.
After completing the layout of the shelter, you can proceed to earthworks. The dimensions of the pit must take into account the allowances for the walls and foundation of the underground building. Until the brick walls are erected, the pit is reinforced with strong boards so that it does not cover with earth while you reveal the talent of a bricklayer.
The base of the foundation slab must first be laid with boards, level the surface and strengthen with 20 centimeters of crushed stone, and then lay the reinforcement. After pouring the base, it must be left alone for 10-15 days until it hardens and gains sufficient strength.
The laying of the walls of the shelter should be made of durable solid bricks. Given the high requirements for structural strength, reinforcement or a metal mesh must be laid every three rows. This will not save you from a direct hit by an atomic bomb, but you can be sure that the bunker will not fall on your head by itself. Walls are built not lower than 2.2 meters.
The best material for overlapping is a metal I-beam covered with boards and sheet metal. According to the regulations, the thickness of wood should be at least 40 mm, and steel panels - 5 mm. So that the structure does not rot and collapse without any war, and so that water does not pour through the ceiling of the bunker after heavy rain, it is necessary to perform waterproofing. To do this, just put a couple of layers of plastic film. Earth is poured on top of it. The walls of the shelter are treated with waterproofing.
It remains to install a sealed door-hatch and a ladder, along which you can go down to your monastery. And do not forget about the emergency exit, otherwise the shelter can turn into a spacious crypt.
The compartment for the dry closet and the electric generator is separated from the "residential" room by a "half-brick" wall. The estimated cost of such a structure, if you build it yourself, starts at 100 thousand rubles.
Equipment and communications
To stay underground even for several days, natural ventilation alone is not enough. It is necessary to provide at least a fan, and better system air conditioning and purification. This is already a serious claim for successful survival in the event of major man-made and military disasters. But such a pleasure costs no less than an entire makeshift bomb shelter.
To make it bright and not boring, you need electricity. Naturally, it is pointless to pull wires from the outlet into the bunker. Set up lighting fixtures, a diesel or gasoline generator, and stock up on at least one can of fuel.
Sanitary standards and the needs of the body determine the installation of a dry closet.
It is worth taking care of the rest by equipping bunk beds. This will save space.
Strategic reserves
For survival, first of all, drinking water is necessary. Its norm per person is 2-3 liters. in a day. It is necessary to stock at least 300 liters for a family. Long-term canned food and cereals are also useful. The latter must be kept in such a way that rodents and insects do not get to them before you. It is optimal if you have the skills of drying and curing meat in order, for example, to make a product such as pemmican (a briquette consisting of chopped dried meat, lard, spices and dried fruits), which can be stored for 6 months.
Be sure to prepare a first aid kit, including in it:
- antiseptics;
- antipyretics;
- painkillers;
- broad spectrum antibiotics;
- remedies for diarrhea;
- antiemetic drugs;
- patch;
- bandage;
- gauze bandages;
- heating pad;
- scissors.
This list is expanding based on the health status of households. It may include heart drugs, insulin, and other life-saving medications. chronic diseases medicines.
In the bomb shelter, you need to collect protective equipment for a reconnaissance sortie: a map, gas masks, OZK, lanterns. For the latter, you need to stock up on batteries.
Keeping Ready
In order for the shelter to be “equipped to receive guests” around the clock, you will have to bear fixed costs. It is necessary to monitor the expiration date of food and water and change the delay fresh produce. Similarly, you will have to do with medicines and batteries. It's not cheap, but keep in mind that any product, each tablet or detail will be worth its weight in gold if there is a serious mess.
In our understanding of a modern underground house, this is an underground room with the strength of a modern bunker and all the amenities of a modern cottage. But the choice always remains with the client, you can order an underground room with all amenities, or vice versa choose a real bomb shelter, but if you need reliable protection for years to come, then of course you need both. The main difficulty of such a house will be its very construction, since this is not an easy task and requires certain skills and a careful study of the plan. Appearance such houses underground is a small mound or some kind of mink, which allows you to fit perfectly into the natural landscape. To date, this type of houses (often called * fox minks *) is quite well in demand and this is due not only to the desire to live in nature, but also to the fact that the construction and use of such a house brings economic benefits in comparison with other types of houses. Building an underground house is an affordable option, and also guarantees (subject to all construction standards) an environmentally friendly environment inside your house. If we talk about temperatures inside an underground house, it is worth noting that the earth itself poorly conducts heat, but at the same time accumulates it well. All temperature changes outside take place very slowly in the soil itself, that is, heat comes to the depth with a long delay. The temperature of an underground house will depend on both the type of soil and the climatic location. Approximately there will be such temperatures: in winter it is from 5 to 10 degrees, and in summer from 15 to 20 degrees.
What are the requirements for a building site?
Speaking about the construction of an underground house, it is immediately worth noting that this can not be implemented everywhere due to the nature of the soil. Therefore, further we will talk about what should be the relief, soil, groundwater level, and so on, in order to have an idea of what the site should be for building an underground house.
- What should be the relief? The best site for construction will be a site with elevation differences, that is, with slopes or hills. A plot with such a relief will allow you to choose a place for construction, where you do not have to invest heavily in earthworks. During construction, a kind of floor will appear on the elephant, the further deepening and expansion of which will make it possible to equip the premises underground. If the construction will be carried out on a hilly area, then the house is built into a horizontal surface, which will ensure the formation of natural walls. Due to this, most underground houses are built on hilly terrain. It's important to know. You should not build an underground house in a lowland, as water from the surface, formed as a result of rain, snow and other sources, will flow there, and the soil will be wet, which will negatively affect your house.
- With what orientation is it better to choose the terrain? It is best to choose an area oriented to the south, which will provide you with more solar heat. The choice of the north side will be wrong, since although it will save you from excessive heat in the summer seasons, it will be unacceptable in terms of ecology and hygiene, since the house will need sunlight. If your site is located in latitudes with a constantly or mostly hot climate, then the choice of an eastern orientation of the house would be a good idea.
- What kind of soil should be on the site? If your site has soil that allows water to pass through in the best way, then this is the most suitable site. Such soil is: sand, loam and other types of soil. Due to the better transmission of water, such soil dries quickly and makes it possible to produce natural or artificial embankment. If we talk about which soil is less suitable for building an underground house, then this is clay. It passes water very poorly and the Sami is washed out at the same time. But it can be used as some kind of additional waterproofing of the bearing parts of the house underground. From above, a fertile layer of earth is used for waterproofing.
- What climate is best for a site with an underground house? There is only one rule here, the drier the climate and the surrounding area, the better for an underground house. If the climate is humid and you still decide to build an underground house on such a site, then you will need to organize ventilation in the best way and monitor the condition of the entire structure of the house all the time. Therefore, such a choice will not be the best and will bring many problems and extra costs.
- What should be the water level in the ground? The lower the groundwater is, the better for the site. This will give you the opportunity to build an underground house lower in the terrain itself. Building below the groundwater level is strictly prohibited. You also need to make sure that there are no groundwater leaking on the site in order to avoid water entering your home. Of course, thanks to new technologies, it is possible to protect your home from water penetration, but this will require huge costs.
What are the benefits of building and living in an underground house?
In the old days, living in an underground house was considered the lot of poor people, since the construction of a dugout did not require large expenses and was, so to speak, a budget solution. Now all the necessary technologies have been developed that allow you not only to quickly and cheaply build a house underground, but to organize everything you need for a comfortable stay in it. But with the use of all these benefits, the cost of such housing has increased and has not become much less at home on the surface, and sometimes more expensive. It is possible to make construction less expensive by correct use terrain. This will be discussed:
- Saving energy. Due to the fact that the soil does not transmit heat in the best way (and the thicker the soil layer, the worse the heat passes), a certain temperature balance is observed in the house, that is, there are no temperature fluctuations. In the same winter, the heat stays in the house and does not go away, and in the summer you will not need to use additional equipment to reduce temperatures, as they will be acceptable, which will allow you to save on energy savings.
- Excellent isolation from external sounds. Given that the soil layer does not transmit external noise of various frequencies well, you can enjoy silence in the house and you do not have to equip additional sound insulation.
- It does not take much effort to build. This is due to the fact that for an underground house it will not be necessary to carry out work on the arrangement of the facade and roof, which will further reduce your construction costs. In addition, you do not have to invest in maintaining the integrity of the house for many decades, provided that the construction was completed in accordance with all standards and high-quality waterproofing was laid.
- Defence from external factors. The underground house will be almost completely protected from weather events such as hurricanes and small earthquakes. Also, in the event of a fire on the surface, nothing will threaten your home. Among other things, the house can be used as a bomb shelter. In general, the construction of an underground house, in comparison with others, is quite profitable, if you take into account all the nuances and build in the right places. So, in some cases the best option there will be construction in the ground, and sometimes it is better to build it on the surface and carry out dike. What are the types of houses underground?
The most basic types of such houses are: underground and bunded, which are protected by the earth. An underground house can be considered a house that is completely submerged under a layer of earth or partially. Bundled houses are usually located either above the ground or not completely deepened into the soil, and the entire part of the house that is above the ground is covered with a layer of soil so that it smoothly passes into the surface of your site.
Options for the construction of underground houses
All these underground houses are unique and have their own characteristics, but there are several main options for the construction of such houses:
Bunker, bomb shelter
Such a house is built on any terrain, the only problem in its construction may be the presence of underground layers of water. But again, it will depend on how deep the house is being built. Such a house can be called an underground bunker, because bunkers are ordered from us at great depths in 95% of cases. The only difference between a bunker and a house at depth is the thickness and construction technology of the walls.
bunded
Such a house can be built on any terrain, ranging from the usual flat, ending with a plot with hills. Usually the house is partially submerged in the ground, and its upper part is sprinkled with earth. The typical construction of a bunded house consists of an extension to a mound that will serve as part of the walls, and the remaining walls are further bunded. With such construction, there are practically no restrictions, you can build a house with several floors or with a large number of rooms. You can also equip the windows at once in two or three cardinal directions. The bunded construction is quite economical due to the smaller amount of excavation.
Dugout
This type of underground house is the most common and typical. Its construction is carried out on flat areas or on areas with a certain slope, and in some cases there is the possibility of an extension to the mound. The house is built so that only the roof is visible on the surface, which is covered with a layer of soil. Entrances and exits are arranged in the wall on the end side, in front of which it is necessary to dig a small hole with steps down and make a canopy. Windows are arranged on the end walls from the front side or in the roof so that they look like some kind of lanterns from which light comes. The downside of the dugout is that it will not be possible to build more than one floor, otherwise it will not be an underground house, but an ordinary one with a basement. The construction itself consists in tearing out a large pit, on all sides of which walls and supports for the roof are built. After that, the entire structure is overlapped and covered with soil.
House on the slope
The dimensions and height of such a house are determined by such a parameter as the steepness and direction of the slope. That is, the steeper the slope, the more floors you can build. Lighting is organized in such a way that it is as long as possible. Before you start building a house, you need to remove a certain part of the slope, after which they build the necessary structure and subsequently restore the previous appearance of the site. If there is a top of a mound on your site, then you can organize some passages with exits in opposite directions, which will make it possible to improve ventilation and lighting.
What rules must be observed when building a house underground?
- Use for the construction of a material that has good performance moisture resistance, for example: ceramics, reinforced concrete or wood after special treatments.
- Be sure to equip the entire building with waterproofing.
- The embankment must be carried out using the same soil that was removed during the digging of the pit. And falling asleep at home is done with the help of the brought soil, which will require a lot.
- For a house underground, a finely serrated foundation is mounted, the dimensions of which will be based on the characteristics of the house.
- The walls of the house can be made of various materials: wood, brick, blocks of concrete or completely poured out of concrete.
- The roof structure is made in the form of a system of rafters. If the walls are made of brick or concrete, then the ceiling is vaulted to increase strength.
- If the earth layer, which is the natural protection of the house, is less than one meter, then it is necessary to perform additional thermal insulation and waterproofing.
- To divert water from the surface of the walls and reduce pressure, it will be necessary to perform drainage around the entire perimeter of the house.
What type of waterproofing to choose?
The choice of waterproofing will be determined by the material chosen for the construction of the underground house, the level of moisture in the soil of your site and mechanical factors:
- If the construction of the house was carried out without stone, then the waterproofing can be rolled, plastered or coated. If concrete was used, then it is best to use waterproofing, which penetrates the thickness of the concrete and blocks the passage of water.
- When the soil on the site is dry enough, then you can simply paint the surface of the house with several layers of bitumen. Roll waterproofing is better to use if the humidity is high and the number of layers of the roll will depend on the strength of the water pressure.
- If the house was built on a slope, then it is best to use plaster waterproofing, as it will not move and slide off the walls, unlike bitumen and similar materials.
