How to make a columnar foundation for a barn. We can easily and quickly build a foundation for a shed. Video: DIY columnar foundation

The decision to build a new shed is accompanied by a desire to save on material consumption. A significant part of the estimate in any construction budget is the construction of the foundation. Therefore, it is important to choose the most practical way to install the support structure. Monolithic slab and MZLF are characterized by high costs; it is much more profitable to consider the option of a pile or columnar foundation. Studying the features of the popular base and the step-by-step process of arrangement will help you make a durable one with your own hands. columnar foundation under the barn.

Features of arranging a supporting structure for a barn

Before settling on a specific version of the supporting structure, you should study the factors influencing it during operation. The popular solution to use concrete blocks for a shed is not always acceptable. Problem situations that may arise are:

• Clay soil is subject to heaving forces, so it can overwhelm a columnar support on its side or squeeze it out from below, acting on the sole.
• The light weight of the shed cannot cope with heaving forces, and in this case it is a disadvantage.
• Spring floods or heavy rains provoke destruction of the reinforcement inside concrete blocks or lead to cracking of the material during subsequent freezing.

Therefore, when choosing the type of foundation for a shed, they are guided by the following indicators:

• level groundwater;
• freezing depths;
• soil structure;
• relief features.

Inviting a specialist for geological research when planning the construction of a barn is economically ineffective. Taking a neighbor's foundation as a model is risky - the occurrence of layers is uneven. The best way is to independently study the nature of the soil by screwing in a screw pile. This method will give an effective answer to points of interest.

Comment! The bearing layer must be below the soil freezing line to prevent heaving forces from affecting the foundation.

Options for columnar foundations

The result of independent geological exploration will be the determination of the type of soil and the appropriate method of erecting a columnar foundation for the barn:

• Rocky soil or coarse sand is the optimal condition for using bricks or concrete blocks, which are buried 1-2 rows deep.
• Detection of sandy loam will require additional insulation under the base of the columnar foundation. The second way to make a reliable support structure for a shed is to use permanent formwork into which concrete piles are poured. Asbestos or plastic pipes and roofing felt are suitable for it.
• On difficult terrain or wet soil with high UGV, clay or loam, it is preferable to use screw piles, which do not require drilling wells, insulation and waterproofing.

All options for a columnar foundation are completed at the final stage with a grillage - a surrounding structure designed to evenly distribute the weight of the superstructure onto the supports. Due to the high cost of a belt belt for a barn, the grillage function is usually performed by wooden beams or a metal profile. In this case, it will not be possible to pour the floor over the ground, so they resort to flooring over beams.

Attention! This method of arranging a columnar foundation is unsuitable for a barn where livestock is planned to be housed. Regular cleaning and intensive use will require frequent repairs. It is better to place a poultry house or calf barn on a monolithic belt.

Preparatory work

The process of erecting a columnar foundation intended for a barn follows a simplified scheme. But you still can’t do without preparatory work. First, draw the project on paper, this will help determine the material consumption. The installation of supports is planned so that they are located at each corner of the barn. The gap between the pillars is from one and a half to two meters. Therefore, in addition to the perimeter, the elements of the columnar foundation are located inside the outline of the barn.

The rules for arranging columnar foundations involve removing the top layer of soil. Then they begin marking according to the existing project. The work is carried out using pegs and threads stretched between them. Be sure to monitor the evenness of the corners of the future barn. Additional diagonal lines, which should be the same, will help ensure the correct marking. Then they mark the points where a well or other recess will be prepared for a columnar foundation for a barn.

Application of pipe poles

Columnar foundations come in a variety of shapes. Here you can use the following as permanent formwork:

• sheets of roofing felt wrapped around a reinforcing frame;
• asbestos pipes;
• metal supports;
• PVC products intended for sewerage equipment.

The choice is determined by the desire and capabilities of the developer. In addition to pipes, concrete blocks and bricks are deservedly popular. Wells are prepared with a gasoline or hand drill. The approximate depth is 1.5-2.0 m.

Asbestos supports

To achieve the desired strength, a columnar support made of pipes under a shed needs reinforcement. The height of the asbestos support is determined by the level of soil freezing and must exceed it. It is better to choose a diameter of 200 mm. The process of installing a columnar foundation based on asbestos-cement pipes occurs in two ways.

An option for strengthening with reinforcing rods is as follows:

• The support is lowered into the prepared well. There are metal rods inside it with a gap of about 7 cm between them.
• The length of the rods exceeds the size of the columnar foundation by 50 cm. They protrude beyond the edges of the pores at the top and bottom by about 25 cm.
• The rods, buried in the ground, reliably fix the base of the columnar foundation for the barn. The metal elements protruding beyond the edges of the pipes at the top are intended for fastening to the grillage.
• After installing the fittings, the pipe is filled with concrete and allowed to settle for a week.

You can securely secure a columnar foundation intended for a barn in another way:

• After diving into the well and installing reinforcing bars, the asbestos pipe is filled cement mortar by a third.
• The support is raised by 12-14 cm to allow the concrete mixture to spread. The resulting base is called the sole, the purpose of which is to strengthen the stability of the columnar foundation.
• Next, the pipe is filled with solution to the top, while the rods do not protrude beyond the edges.
• The use of a vibrator or ordinary piercing with metal rods will help to compact the concrete mixture.
• A pin is installed on top, designed to connect to the grillage of a columnar foundation.

Important! The key point is to achieve the same level of all supports under the shed.

Depending on the planned period of operation of the barn, metal rods can be treated with anti-corrosion compounds to extend their service life in a columnar foundation.

Metal constructions

Using metal pipes as a columnar foundation for a barn is an expensive undertaking. But if the construction of a relatively capital structure is planned for a long period, the option deserves attention.

The columnar structure can be designed not only with pipes with a diameter of 200 mm, but also with thinner supports, which are installed in one place, 3 pieces at a time. In this case, the grillage is made exclusively from a steel profile welded to the pillars.

The standard process of forming a columnar foundation for a barn consists of the following steps:

• A sand and gravel drainage pad is prepared at the bottom of the well.
• After which the metal support is lowered down. It is important to ensure a tight fit of the pipes to the walls of the well.
• The columnar foundation is filled with cement mixture.

A light barn does not require additional reinforcement of metal structures, but preliminary application of protection with anti-corrosion compounds will help extend their service life. Five days after pouring, they proceed to arranging the grillage of the columnar foundation for the barn.

PVC pipes

The preparatory stage of arranging a columnar structure for a shed based on plastic pipes is similar to the process with asbestos supports. Before installing the PVC product into the well, a sand and gravel cushion is formed at the bottom, which serves as a drainage layer. Roofing felt or polyethylene is placed on top as waterproofing.

The well is filled with cement mortar, which is allowed to dry for an hour. Then insert the PVC pipe, pressing it all the way. By analogy with an asbestos columnar foundation, metal rods are placed inside, protruding from above by 20 cm. After the concrete mixture has hardened, they begin to arrange a grillage for the barn.

Installation of concrete blocks or bricks

After drawing up a plan for a columnar foundation, materials are purchased in a standard set - sand, crushed stone, PC 400 cement and concrete blocks. In the absence of solid specimens, the voids are filled independently with a cement solution with the addition of crushed stone. The design of a columnar structure for a barn begins with marking the site. It is carried out using pegs and thread. First, the perimeter of the shed is marked, then parallel lines are drawn to install the internal blocks.

The depth of the pit varies depending on the characteristics of the soil and the chosen method of arrangement.

Comment! Clay soils force you to take care of installing a drainage layer and insulation under the base of a columnar foundation. Otherwise, holes are dug below the freezing level. Non-heaving soil eliminates additional effort and time.

The size of the pit is slightly larger than the size of the blocks or bricks so that they can be adjusted. At the bottom of the prepared recesses, a drainage layer of crushed stone 0.1 m high is formed, followed by compaction.

Installation of blocks is carried out according to the level, its height is adjusted using crushed stone, pouring it under the bottom or removing excess. A significant advantage of a block-based foundation is the speed of construction. Problem-free soil allows you to prepare a columnar foundation for a barn in one or two days on your own without the involvement of helpers. If brick is used as pillars, it can be laid in such a way that a cavity is formed inside, which is subsequently filled with concrete mixture to increase the strength of the columnar foundation.

A preliminary study of the relief features and soil characteristics will help you choose the best foundation option for the barn.

Foundations are needed not only for houses and cottages, but also for outbuildings, which include sheds. Such structures are often built on a strong foundation. With this addition, buildings become taller and stronger. It’s worth figuring out which foundation is more suitable for a shed and how to install it yourself.

Features of choosing a base

Today there are several types of foundations. Each of them has its positive and negative sides. For a shed, you need to select the foundation as carefully as for the main structures on the site.

To settle on one option, you should rely on the characteristics of the soil.

• Loose, sandy soil is characterized by one serious problem: after snow melts or heavy precipitation, such soil becomes saturated with moisture. This may cause him to simply “float”. Under these conditions, professionals advise constructing a monolithic or strip foundation.
• As for clayey soil, it must be taken into account that it is subject to freezing at a considerable depth. In such conditions, quicksand also form. For such soil, a pile foundation is more suitable.
• The negative aspects of frozen soil and quicksand are unfamiliar to the gravel type of soil. In such conditions, it is possible to safely install a columnar foundation.
• There is also a special rocky type of soil. Any type of foundation can be built on it. The only exception is screw bases.

To choose the optimal type of foundation, it is important to take into account the topography of the soil, as well as the groundwater level. To find out all the necessary information about the site, you should contact specialists. However, it is worth considering that such geological surveys can be quite expensive, so most homeowners rely on the experience and advice of neighbors. There is a way to independently study the soil to choose the optimal foundation. To do this, a test screwing of the screw pile is done. In this case, this part is deepened into the ground manually so that the groundwater level can be determined, as well as the depth of the load-bearing layer based on the moment of screeding.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the construction of the foundation for the shed, it is necessary to carefully prepare the area in the place where the outbuilding will be located.

At this stage the following work should be carried out:

• you need to thoroughly level the place where the foundation with the shed will stand;
• remove all unnecessary things from the ground: stumps, twigs, dirt, trees, bushes and other similar objects.

After clearing the land, different work is carried out for each type of foundation. For example, for a monolithic foundation a large hole is dug, but for a linear foundation it is necessary to prepare a trench. If the site has very uneven ground or soil with a large slope, then leveling it will not be so easy. In this case, experts recommend installing foundation structures on piles.

Subtleties of manufacturing

You can make the foundation for a shed with your own hands. It is worth considering in more detail several simple instructions with a step-by-step description of the installation of the foundations for this outbuilding.

Screw

Screw bases are erected as follows:

• first, along the perimeter of the walls you need to set markings for screw piles;
• then you need to dig small holes, leaving about 1.5–2 m between them; it is necessary to place piles in the prepared holes, which should be located in the corners; if the structure has internal partitions, then the piles must be fixed along the line of their construction.
• if you plan to lay a floor made of boards in the barn, then the piles need to be placed under the beams;
• you need to screw in large piles that have a diameter of more than 100 mm and a length of more than 150 mm, it should be taken into account that such installation work carried out using special equipment;

• piles that are more modest in size are screwed into the soil manually using levers, while care must be taken to ensure that the foundation structures are in an even vertical position;
• fixed piles need to be trimmed to height; for this it is recommended to use a bubble or laser level;
• Cement composition must be poured into the pipes;
• caps must be attached to the top of the piles; The foundation base is assembled into one structure using a channel or I-beam welded around the perimeter.

Columnar

To build a similar foundation for an outbuilding, The following materials may be needed:

• concrete solution, which will need to be poured into the formwork;
• metal or asbestos pipes with reinforcement, filled with concrete mortar;
• brickwork;
• concrete blocks.

A foundation with pillar supports for a barn is built in a different way than a screw one, and includes the following steps:

• to install supports, you need to dig recesses of suitable depth, based on the markings drawn up earlier;
• the gap between the supporting parts should be left in the range from 1.5 to 2 m;
• the depth of the foundation structure for an outbuilding must be at least 150 mm below the freezing point of the soil;
• It is necessary to sprinkle coarse crushed stone (about 100 mm) at the bottom of the holes, in addition, pour out the same amount of sand; these materials should be compacted, and then roofing material should be laid on top;
• the supports should be placed at the same level, they should be located approximately 150–200 mm above the ground;
• You need to put several layers of waterproofing on top of the supports;
• The pillars must be surrounded by a blind area to prevent the soil from being washed away.

Tape

Strip foundation types are the most popular because they are inexpensive, can easily withstand impressive loads and are universal.

To prepare such a base for a shed, you should perform the following steps:

• a trench is dug along the perimeter of the outbuilding, having a depth of 200–300 mm below the soil freezing level;
• the trench width indicator depends on the size of the base; free space should be allocated for installation of the formwork;
• it is necessary to arrange a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 100 mm, and then compact it thoroughly;
• sand must be poured onto the bottom of the trench and compacted too;
• now it is necessary to prepare the formwork with the top edge rising 200–300 mm above the ground;
• the formwork needs to be strengthened with struts, while the upper outermost part is knocked down with transverse bars in increments of 1.5–2 m;

• inside the formwork on the walls you need to put roofing felt or polyethylene;
• you need to carry out reinforcement, for which steel rods with a diameter of 8–12 mm are useful; the reinforcement must be laid and tied so that a lattice with cells of 40–50 mm is obtained;
• it is necessary to pour concrete; to get rid of air bubbles, reinforcement must be inserted into the concrete several times over the entire surface of the pour;
• You should cover the setting concrete with plastic film and wet it from time to time so that the material does not crack;
• after 28 days, when the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork must be removed and the trench backfilled with earth;
• Two layers of waterproofing should be applied to the concrete pour.

According to home craftsmen, this foundation is quite simple. Its construction is not difficult.

From foam blocks

A foundation made of blocks (foam or cinder blocks) is strong and reliable.

It is installed in several stages, namely:

• first you need to mark the area and dig trenches of the required depth;
• the bottom of the trench must be leveled and compacted;
• the next step is to arrange a bed of gravel and sand;
• after this, the blocks can be laid out in the trench; To do this, you should turn to the services of special lifting equipment;
• a cement-sand mixture should be applied to the side walls;

• each subsequent block row must be laid with a slight offset of half the length compared to the previous one;
• in the space separating the rows, you need to apply a solution of sand and cement;
• at least 1 row of foam blocks must be laid above the ground;
• At the top and sides you need to apply bitumen mastic using rags and kvach;
• Finally, you need to backfill the trench with earth.

Monolithic

The monolithic base is reliable and strong. It can be used on almost any soil. On such a basis, a shed of any size, from very small to large (for example, with dimensions of 6x4 m) will stand for many years.

The technology for constructing this type of foundation includes the following steps:

• under the entire pouring area you need to dig a hole, and its depth should be only 0.5 m; after compacting, you need to pour sand (200 mm) onto the bottom, in addition, the sand needs to be slightly moistened and compacted;
• crushed stone is laid on the sand layer (200 mm layer) and also compacted;

• floor slabs are laid out on the resulting sand-gravel cushion and prepared for pouring; for this, formwork is assembled and reinforcement is made; V in this case the cells in the lattice should be 20x20 m, then the formwork is filled with concrete;
• you need to expel air bubbles from the solution, which should be done using a special vibropress;
• you need to put a polyethylene layer on the frozen solution;
• the formwork can only be removed after 28 days.

• A large outbuilding will require a sectional layout. In this case, the foundation is poured not only along the edges of the building, but also under it, so that the bottom of the barn does not sag over time, but simply lies on the concrete.
• The cement dries completely on average in 24–28 days, however, the construction of the outbuilding can be started earlier - after a few weeks, when the strength of the pouring has been achieved by more than half.
• If a columnar structure is mounted on heaving ground, then it should be taken into account that it must lie deeper than the freezing point of the ground.
• If you want to save money, then instead of asbestos pipes and roofing felt, you can use simple car tires. In conditions of non-heaving soil, they do not need to be deepened much. The cavity of these objects should be filled with sand and then filled with cement.

• Do not forget that the columnar foundation under the barn must be waterproofed and drained without fail.
• Experts recommend making the required calculations and measurements in advance, as well as preparing all the necessary recesses on the site. You also need to decide on the number of foundation pillars. Otherwise, you may encounter serious problems. For example, in the midst of work, it may turn out that there are rubble nodes in the ground that cannot be dug out.
• Screw piles can be made a little longer if necessary. To do this, the ends located at the top are supplemented with threads and grooves.
• It must be remembered that the piles are not affected by heaving in any way, since their outer surfaces are treated with an anti-corrosion agent. However, the building then receives an underground space, the perimeter of which must be covered with decorative material, for example, siding, tiles or corrugated sheeting. In order for the underground to be ventilated, the shelter is equipped with ventilation ducts.
• The barn must be built immediately after the completion of the foundation work. Otherwise, the heaving of the soil, which occurs in the spring, may move the pillars slightly from their original point.

The Persian pompous word “shed”, meaning both “palace” and the name of the capital of the Golden Horde, the Russian people habitually simplified and adapted to the name of the simplest utility room outbuilding. When purchasing a property, sheds are usually the first to be built. They store tools and equipment for building a house and working in the garden. And then they can be used not only as a storage room, but also as an enclosure for animals, and as a workshop for the owner of the house. Building a shed is easy. You don't need any super skills to do this. And any construction project needs to start from the foundation.

Features of the base for a shed

Of course, a barn is a lightweight building compared to a house. But it also does not have the weight of a toy; it is susceptible to soil movements, rising groundwater, freezing, and rotting. Therefore, a foundation is necessary, at least the simplest one. It is a fundamental part of any building. And any foundation is bad and does not fulfill its functions if it is built inconsistently with the purpose and incorrectly.

A barn with the right strip foundation will last a long time

Foundation (from Latin fundamentum - base) is an underground or underwater part of a building (structure), which receives loads and transfers them to the base. There are strip foundations (including those made from cross strips), columnar, solid, and pile foundations. There are monolithic and prefabricated ones. Material - concrete, reinforced concrete, stone (rubble), wood.

Big Encyclopedic Dictionary (BED)http://slovari.299.ru/enc.php

There are not many types of foundations, and they all have common features. These are penetration into the soil, a cushion of drainage material (crushed stone, sand, pebbles), the foundation itself and waterproofing. The only thing that doesn't have a pillow is pile foundations- and then only if they do not have a buried grillage. And for lightweight structures, completely shallow foundations are used. There is a strict connection between them and the type of soil and the weight of the structure.

Classification of soil on the site

Before designing a house, it is better to order a professional survey of the site (and it is advisable not to use the results of your neighbor: sometimes even nearby sites have very different soil conditions). But by the time you get to the point of building a house, a lot of time will pass; building a shed does not require such precision, so before building a shed, you can do a soil study yourself: use a garden drill to drill a two-meter hole, removing and studying the soil from different depths.

There are several simple tests. Water is mixed into the soil, you try to roll it out like dough and roll it into a ring. If this is successful, then two-thirds of it consists of clay or loam. If soil is poured into water and it begins to dissolve before our eyes and the water becomes cloudy, then this indicates loam; sand and clay precipitate.

Scheme of sedimentation in a solution of soil in water

According to the reference book “Soils. Foundations. Choosing the optimal foundation” There are three types of soils:

non-rocky:

The contact area of ​​the foundation with the soil must correspond to the load, taking into account the expected resistance of the soil. The maximum resistance (reactive pressure) of the soil is determined experimentally based on the principles of soil mechanics, and in government building codes Tables of permissible soil resistance for certain geographical zones are given.

Collier's Encyclopedia

Groundwater

Groundwater level is also the most important indicator, on which not only the foundation “model” depends, but also the depth of its foundation.

The structure of groundwater in your area is very important information

Soil freezing

In addition to the composition of the soil, you need to know to what depth it freezes in winter. In our “latitudes” the freezing depth is usually from eighty to one hundred centimeters, but with certain rare types of soil it can be more or less.

The base of the foundation should be below the maximum freezing depth of the soil to prevent swelling of the soil when freezing. The safe depth depends on annual temperature variations, the type and range of local soil variations, and the normal groundwater level. In addition, seasonal changes in the volume of clay soils are sometimes observed, which should not be allowed under a foundation laid on a natural foundation.

Collier's Encyclopediahttp://dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/enc_colier/6886/%D0%A4%D0%A3%D0%9D%D0%94%D0%90%D0%9C%D0%95%D0%9D %D0%A2

Since the barn is light, very simple and extremely economical types of foundations are often used. But sometimes in difficult soils you need to strengthen them.

Types of foundations suitable for a shed

Slab

Excellent for unstable or subsiding soil; in addition, it is often used if the barn is heavy. Pros: solidity, reliability. Disadvantages: labor intensive, lack of underground, high cost.

Example monolithic foundation- such a foundation for a barn is, of course, too solid

Tape

The best option is a shallowly buried strip foundation. It can be made from ready-mixed concrete, cement mortar, or concrete blocks with mortar. Pros: comparative simplicity and financial accessibility of its construction. Disadvantages: it cannot be placed on unreliable soils with close soil water, on clay and sand. But almost one hundred percent of the experts will recommend it to you, even if your site consists of unfavorable soils - but with amendments to the design: it will be necessary to make the “ribbon” of the foundation wider and deeper.

Tape concrete foundation in this design it is also redundant for a light shed

Columnar

One of the easiest types to perform independently. Suitable for light wooden or frame structures. Such a foundation can also be shallow, but this is more suitable for gazebos and barbecues - for a house it is too ephemeral. It is placed in pits (on a bed of drainage material) made of factory-made concrete blocks. Pros: ease of implementation, low price, suitable for any soil. Cons: not suitable for heavy structures; It practically eliminates the presence of an underground floor, and the space under the shed will be poorly insulated.

Columnar foundation is very suitable for lightweight structures

Pile

It dampens movements well and is made from asbestos-cement pipes, which are concreted into pits with drainage filler, and sometimes from ordinary metal and screw piles. Pros: suitable for unstable soils and slopes, resistant to subsidence and landslides; asbestos cement is also cheap. Cons: pile-grillage with a metal grillage is very expensive due to the cost of metal for a heavy grillage and requires welding.

A pile-and-grillage foundation with screw piles is wonderful, but too expensive for a cheap shed

But there are also a lot of foundations that are combined in design and depth.

Photo gallery: examples of foundations suitable for a barn

The screw piles are camouflaged here. A barn made of logs on a columnar foundation. A barn on screw piles - an expensive solution
A strip foundation for a barn is sometimes very heavy and too redundant A barrel barn on a slab foundation made of wood A shed with a wood shed on a slab foundation made of rubble stone
Shed with an old boat roof on a strip foundation in Wales Plank shed on a post foundation Designer shed can be installed on any foundation; made in Russia

Video: types of foundations for construction

What to build from and how: review of materials and methods

In order to have a good idea of ​​what we will encounter when building a foundation for a barn, we will briefly describe how the most common versions of such foundations are made.

From large section timber

From blocks and bricks

Such a foundation is quite difficult to implement.

Strip concrete foundation

Piles and grillage made of timber

Concrete piles

We'll talk about the columnar foundation made of concrete blocks in more detail later.

Preliminary preparation for choosing a shed and the foundation for it

It involves very few actions.

Selecting a location

It is very important to place the shed so that it is not exposed to strong gusts of wind or does not end up in a wind tunnel between two buildings (otherwise its parts will be subject to unnecessary stress). In addition, it should not be located under the slope of the roof of the house, so as not to be covered with additional snow; on a slope so that it does not flood; in the shade so that the snow does not remain on its roof for a long time; near large trees so that the roof is not pierced by branches and covered with leaves in the fall. And most importantly: the ground at the construction site must be suitable and level.

Choosing a location for a shed is a responsible matter; choosing the right location will make construction and further operation much easier for you.

The right place for your shed will greatly facilitate its construction and further operation.

Design selection

Here you have complete scope for creativity. It all depends on your needs, capabilities and skills.

A barn in the form of a trailer from the beginning of the 20th century - decoration of the site

The barn can be anything.

But we will focus on the simplest small lean-to frame shed, standing separately, for which you will need the simplest foundation of all possible.

Scheme of the future barn on a columnar foundation made of blocks

How to make a foundation for a barn with your own hands

If your goal is only to protect your structure from rotting and moisture, and not to create a full-fledged underground floor, then your path is a shallow columnar foundation made of foam or expanded clay blocks. Moreover, we will place the blocks not in a checkerboard pattern, 4 blocks per column, but one on top of the other - two per column. Our design is lightweight.

An example of blocks in the pillars of a shallow columnar foundation

Selection and calculation of material

But on any site (unless you have just arrived on a virgin piece of field) there are always leftovers: pieces of roofing felt, a pile of sand or crushed stone, several blocks or a hundred bricks. So, most likely, you won’t need to buy materials. But if necessary, you can display the following numbers.

Table: calculation of the required material and its approximate cost, based on average prices

If you replace the timber with a board, then the already low cost will be even lower.

It is done in the most primitive way.

Tools needed

Step by step process

Video: how to design a frame barn and install a block foundation for it

A columnar, shallow foundation made of blocks with a grillage made of timber is the simplest and cheapest way to create a good foundation for your shed. And it will be quite reliable. Go for it!

No matter the size of the house, you can’t do without a shed on the site. Not everything can and should be brought into the house, even if there is space, and even if there is not, then even more so - outbuildings are necessary. This, by the way, may be the first experience in self-construction: You can build a shed with your own hands without any skills. The main thing is that the hands grow from the right place.

What materials are they built from?

If the shed is located close to the house and you care about its appearance, it makes sense to use the same material as when building the house. If you don't want to spend a large amount for an outbuilding, you can choose the finish so that you won’t be able to tell it apart from a distance. In most cases, this is not very difficult: there are many technologies and many materials very accurately reproduce the appearance of expensive finishing materials. A striking example of this is. It is available for logs, beams, bricks, stones with different texture. So you don’t have to use expensive materials to build a shed. It is more practical to use inexpensive construction technology, and then cover it with material with a texture similar to the finishing of the main building.

How to quickly and cheaply build a shed

The fastest and at the same time inexpensive option for building a shed is by. The frame can be wooden or, it is sheathed on the outside with finishing, a roof is installed and that’s it, the barn is ready. If the barn is planned to be made of wood, it is assembled from timber and boards. A metal shed can be more conveniently made from a profiled pipe: it has a square section and is much easier to weld and join. There is also a special metal frame. It is assembled using self-tapping screws, and the entire structure is ordered and manufactured at the factory. Such houses are considered the cheapest; barns are unlikely to be expensive. Assembling both a metal and wooden shed takes several days: it has been tested more than once.

The frame building is lightweight, so the foundation for the barn needs a lightweight one. In most cases, columns and concrete blocks are sufficient; sometimes screw piles are installed or bored piles are made. On more difficult soils and for those who love reliability, you can build a monolithic or prefabricated () shallow strip foundation.

Another option. It is suitable for soils from which water drains well, and the groundwater is located deep. Then they mark out an area that is 50 cm larger than the planned barn in each direction, remove the turf and make a sand and gravel backfill. Framing beams are laid on compacted crushed stone and floor joists are attached to them (treated with anti-septic tiles for direct contact of wood with the ground). That's all. No difficulties.

This is far from the best option: even with a low groundwater level and careful processing of the wood, the barn will not last long. If you are comfortable with this, you can do it this way.

Foundation for a frame shed

All types of pile or columnar foundations require the placement of single supports around the perimeter: always at the corners of the building and at the junction of lintels (partitions), if any are provided. The installation step of the supports depends on the size of the barn and what kind of logs you plan to use. The larger the span, the larger the section required for the logs.

For example, for a barn width of 2 meters, you can install only two rows of posts and the logs will be 150 * 50 mm (in extreme cases, 150 * 40 mm). If the width of the barn is 3 meters, then either install intermediate supports (posts, piles), or take a 150 * 70 mm board. Calculate what will be cheaper in your region and choose.

With a board width of 100 mm, the floor bends noticeably under your feet. So you have to make the installation step of the log about 30 cm. Then there is no deflection at all, or it is insignificant (depending on the weight).

The fastest way to make a foundation is on ready-made blocks: you can buy them or make them yourself. Under them, pits are dug a little larger in size than blocks. Sand is poured onto the bottom, compacted, then gravel, this is also compacted. The thickness of the compacted bedding is 20-30 cm. Blocks are installed on it, and the lower trim is mounted on the blocks.

If we are talking about a shallow strip foundation, then a trench is dug 40-60 cm deep relative to the ground level, the width of the strip is about 25 cm, and the trench itself must be wider by at least half a meter or more: the bottom is leveled and compacted. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted again.

A frame is knitted from a 12-14 mm rod. Four ribbed longitudinal rods are connected using frames made of smooth rod 6-8 mm. The dimensions of the frames must be such that all reinforcement is located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the edges of the tape. For example, if the foundation is 40*25 cm, then the rods are tied into a structure with a rectangular section of 30*15 cm.

A connected frame is installed in the formwork, which is then poured at least M-200

Do-it-yourself wooden frame shed: step by step with photos

A frame barn measuring 6*3 meters was built. The roof is pitched, covered with ondulin. The height of the front wall is 3 meters, the back one is 2.4 m. Operation has shown that with such a difference in height, snow does not accumulate much (Len. region).

Standard FBS 600*300*200 blocks were used as the foundation for the barn. They are laid on a sand and gravel bedding 25 cm thick. A cut-off waterproofing is laid on top of the blocks - a layer of roofing felt, on bitumen mastic. A layer of “hydrotex” is also glued on top of the same mastic. This cake was made because the groundwater level was high, and it was necessary to ensure that the building was protected from dampness.

Start of construction of the barn. Waterproofing is laid on the foundation, a frame is placed on it, and a beam is attached to the frame

A beam with a cross section of 150*150 mm was laid on the waterproofing (all lumber was processed). Connected into half a tree, nailed - 100 * 4 mm. For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, you can join the beams end-to-end, nail reinforced corners to the joints from the inside, and a mounting plate from the outside.

In this version, the frame was not attached to the blocks in any way. In regions with high wind loads this is unjustified. You can fasten it using studs: a hole of the same diameter (12-14 mm) is drilled under them, through the beam, into the block. A pin is driven into it, the bolt is then tightened with a wrench. To hide the cap, you can drill a hole for it.

The next step is to attach the floor joists. Installed on the edge of a 150*60 mm board. They are attached to the harness with special brackets of the appropriate size. Attached to 100*4 mm nails.

The logs were aligned along the upper edge of the strapping beam. Everything must be level, otherwise the floor will be difficult to lay. You may have to level it with a plane or redo it.

The frame was assembled using the “platform” technology: first the floor was laid, and the walls were mounted on it. The wall frame or part of it is assembled on the floor. In some cases, they are immediately sheathed from the outside if slab material is chosen for the sheathing. And already in this form (with or without casing) they are lifted, placed vertically and secured.

There is a second technology called “balloon”. The frame is mounted along it gradually: the corner posts of the frame are mounted on the frame or even directly on the blocks. They are leveled in all planes. A rope is pulled between them, along which the remaining racks are then placed. They are also nailed one at a time, fastening them together with slopes and temporary cross members.

In this case, the “platform” technology was chosen and 18 mm thick OSB was laid on the logs. In general, the floor can be made of boards, plywood (moisture resistant), OSB, etc. You will need 20 boards, 13-15 mm plywood, but you need moisture resistant (OSB is moisture resistant by default).

Next, the assembly of the walls began. The frame is completely knocked down: the lower frame, the racks, the top frame. In this form, it is installed exactly along the edge of the strapping beam, aligned, reinforced with safety struts, stops, and slopes. It is nailed through the flooring to the trim beam. The nails were 200*4 mm.

To assemble the frame, 100*50 mm boards were used, the distance between the posts was 600 mm, the rafters were installed with the same spacing. The rafter system was assembled from 150*40 mm.

Window and door openings are reinforced - two boards are nailed, which are nailed together in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The load here is greater, so reinforcement is required. There is a gate at one end for loading/unloading large items. Therefore, in this wall (you can see in the photo) there are only corner posts and reinforced ones - for fastening the sashes.

Since the roof is single-pitched, the rafter system is simple: boards that are selected for the rafters are laid on the edge. Their length is longer, since the roof overhang is necessary. It is usually 30-50 cm on each side. In this option, with a barn width of 3 meters, the length of the rafter legs (taking into account the slope) was 3840 mm.

They were nailed obliquely with nails - two on each side. It can be strengthened by installing corners: this will withstand even significant wind and snow loads.

The external walls were covered with OSB 9.5 mm thick.

The doors were installed and small steps were made.

The finishing touches were to install the wind board. The barn was then clapboarded and painted to match the rest of the buildings on the site. The barn was built with your own hands on a ready-made foundation in two weekends. Cladding and painting were done much later - almost a month later.

The final barn...beautiful

The unattractive foundation is covered with asbestos sheets cut to size. It turned out to be a beautiful barn.

Shed with a gable roof made of metal tiles

This barn was built alone. The building is also frame: the most cheap way. In this case, the assembly method is “balloon” - gradual alignment of the racks. It all starts the same way: first we made columns for the foundation. Only this time they are brick.

As you can see, there are studs built into the corner posts. Holes are drilled in the strapping beam and it is put on studs. They can be done not only in corners, but also on intermediate posts: it will hold on more firmly.

This barn has a small porch, so a cross beam is installed at the required distance. And the wall will support it. Columns were also pre-made for it.

The logs can also be attached with a notch. Then a notch in the shape of the log is cut out in the strapping beam. In depth it should not exceed 30% of the thickness of the beam, so the joist is cut so that it is flush with the frame. This method is more labor-intensive.

Next, the frame was assembled: corner posts 100*100 mm, intermediate posts - 50*100 mm, the top frame and rafter system were assembled from the same board. The triangles at the top are reinforced with applied metal plates. Smaller plates were also attached at the junction of the upper frame beam and the racks. They were connected end-to-end without cutting, nailed on top and diagonally with nails. The plates reduced the likelihood of folding under lateral loads.

The frame was covered with OSB sheets - the most convenient size for construction. Subsequently, the walls will be finished with wood siding.

The sheathing, by the way, does not have to be made of plywood or OSB. You can attach the lining or board directly to the racks. But then, when assembling the frame, you need to install slopes: without the rigidity of the slab material, the building will be flimsy. If you don’t set the slopes, you can swing them by hand.

After installing the braces, you can fill the board, lining, block house, imitation timber - the choice is yours.

For those who are concerned about the appearance of the building, here are some ideas on how to make a barn beautiful in video format.

Video about building wooden sheds

The barn turned out to be beautiful, but not cheap. But it is decent in size, strong and in appearance no different from a house - it fits into the composition. Everything is shown/described in detail, there is one violation: the waterproofing under the metal tiles is laid vertically. Even with good gluing of the strips, sooner or later the water will make a path for itself. Otherwise, everything is correct.

In this case, the barn is built with your own hands on what is probably the cheapest foundation: concrete is poured into old tires. The frame stands on these “pillars”. Naturally, they need to be placed on a flat, reliable surface and they themselves must be at the same level. In terms of strength, the base will not be inferior to the best concrete blocks, and may even surpass them. Tires protruding from under the structure can be closed by making a step and subsequently placing flowers on it or using it for other needs. It will be even more practical.

Another video with a step-by-step illustration of the construction of a frame barn made of timber.

Drawings with dimensions

Several drawings to help you navigate the dimensions of the building. If necessary, adjust to your site or needs.

Shed with a pitched roof - drawing with a diagram of the arrangement of racks

Square barn - dimensions

Building your own home is unthinkable without a place to store your tools. A barn, garage or similar outbuilding precedes the “development” of a plot of land. Well, the construction itself begins with the foundation. Preparing a foundation for a shed with your own hands is not a difficult task, but it requires preparation. In addition, the invaluable experience gained will be useful in the future. The topic of theoretical and practical skills will seem extremely useful when working on larger objects.

An outbuilding on a site, at first glance, may seem like a very simple structure in terms of construction. This simplicity is deceptive. But do not forget that a thorough approach to construction will ensure long-term operation without repairs. Appearance without cracks and dampness, it will be attractive with proper construction, which begins, regardless of the fact that it will be a foundation.

The soil as it is

Before starting work, you need to answer the question of how to ensure that the construction stood for a long time without defects and without unnecessary costs. The answer involves many conditions that you should pay close attention to. First of all, you need to choose a type of foundation that will absorb, distribute and transfer the load from the building to the ground without damage, and will not deform itself.

We are talking about the relatively inexpensive construction of a garage or shed, costs must be economically justified. Why invest a lot of money in the form of a deep slab foundation where you can get by with a cheap pile foundation?

The choice of the type of foundation for a future building is primarily influenced by the soil located on the site. In our latitudes there are rocky, sandy, and gravel soils. At the construction site there may be sandy loam and loam unfavorable for construction.

Rock option The most favorable soil for construction is an almost natural version of the foundation that nature itself prepared. It is stable, does not change its structure in frost, and is not affected by moisture. There is only one drawback - digging it is a very labor-intensive task, which is compensated only by its small volumes. On such soil the depth of the foundation may not be very deep.

How good is the type described above, how bad is the view from sandy loam and loam. It has a high freezing depth, like sandy soil, it forms quicksand, which, if the depth of the foundation is insufficient, can move the wall of the structure to the side. With these types of soil, the foundation must exceed the frost depth.

Outbuildings are not too heavy, so it is suitable for them shallow foundation, the dependence on the impact of low temperatures on the soil has not gone away; on average, it is believed that the depth of the foundation for a shed is sufficient, with a size of sixty centimeters.

Tape

Historically, the most commonly used foundation is strip foundation. For a shed 6 by 3 meters, this option is not bad, since the intricacies of the production of this foundation are known to almost everyone. A strip foundation for a shed is a fairly justified choice; it is a time-tested solution, if built correctly, will last for many years.

Let us remind you how to do it.

Along the perimeter of the building, whatever it is, digging a trench, about seventy centimeters wide, the depth should be fifteen centimeters greater than the freezing level. Bottom compacted in several passes, then a pillow is prepared at the bottom. It completely levels the bottom of the ditch, and takes on some of the functions of the foundation itself, plus provides protection from moisture.

Making a foundation without a cushion is a common mistake made by builders. The pillow will cope better with its “responsibilities” if you make two layers: a compacted ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone and half that of sand. Then formwork is being prepared, its height should be twenty-five centimeters above ground level.

Reinforcement will strengthen the concrete and the foundation of the house. A mesh with a cell width of about thirty centimeters is knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 1.2 centimeters. Concrete is gradually poured into the prepared pit, after hardening the wooden frame is removed, and the remaining voids are filled with earth. After installing the waterproofing, construction can continue. Knowledge of the technology of how to pour a foundation for a shed and practical experience will be useful in the further development of the site.

Columnar

A columnar foundation for a barn will be cheaper. The only thing that hinders the widespread dissemination of this option is that it cannot be laid on moving soils, since the connection between the supports is not rigid enough. However, favorable soils make a columnar foundation for a shed the best choice. It is quite possible to make this foundation, just like the strip foundation, yourself.

Work is carried out in the corners, and depending on the design, at the intersection of walls, installation of poles. A columnar foundation for a barn involves the use of brick, concrete, and asbestos pipes filled with cement mortar. The work requires exercise with a shovel, but to a much lesser extent than with a strip base.

Below the freezing depth, holes are dug, their bottom is compacted, and a fifteen-centimeter cushion of crushed stone-sand mixture is filled in. It is also compacted. The next stage is the installation of the supports themselves. Either, after preparing the formwork, the mortar is poured, or the bricks are laid, the meaning is the same. A metal rod is installed inside the support, increasing the load-bearing capacity. A columnar foundation for a barn will reduce material consumption and volume earthworks and time to build.

Foam blocks

Foam blocks are a fairly common building material, which excellent for foundation construction. When choosing such a solution, it is even permissible to continue construction using foam blocks; walls made of this material will not create an additional load on the base. But do not forget, in this case, about waterproofing.

The prevalence of construction from foam blocks is due to adequate price for this material, its lightness without compromising strength. Strength, in turn, allows it to be used to form a foundation. Perhaps this is the best base option for a shed.

Construction of this type is similar to creating a strip foundation. The soil around the perimeter is developed in the same way; the bottom requires compaction. Similar to the first considered option, a pillow is created from two layers. A wooden blind area will create boundaries for concrete, the height of which is within twenty centimeters. After it is poured and hardened, it is time to install the blocks.