What is the best pillow for a T-shaped foundation. T-shaped foundation concreting. DIY brickwork technology LF

One of the simplest foundations for buildings is considered to be a shallow strip foundation. Despite the ease in the production of work, there is always the possibility of doing something wrong, therefore, before setting up the MLF, you should familiarize yourself with the general technology. Today we will take a step-by-step look at the device of a shallow tape.

Scope of MZLF

Shallow foundations are used for buildings with a low loaded mass. As an example, you can cite houses on a steel or wooden frame, as well as buildings made of lightweight elements (foam concrete, PCB). Usually, the number of storeys of buildings on the MZLF does not exceed two.

In the definition of MZLF, shallow - means completely located in the frozen soil layer, the underground part of the concrete tape rarely exceeds 500-700 mm. The forces of frost heaving with this arrangement do not create tangential (breaking) loads, but the entire building, together with the foundation, dynamically moves following the expansion of the soil. For this and other reasons, it is not recommended to arrange a shallow tape in areas with a general relief slope of more than 2%. On steeper slopes, a shallow foundation can be built only after replanning the soil with the formation of a horizontal terrace.

The expediency of using MZLF lies in a much lower consumption of materials and simplicity of design. If a basement floor is not planned for the building, the shallow tape will reduce the volume of concrete mix and reinforcement by 2-3 times, while providing an equivalent bearing capacity.

However, it is worth noting that it will not be possible to establish a shallow foundation on loose peat, silty soils and mud sandy loam. Such soils have too low density and high plasticity, therefore, they require the construction of pile-grillage foundations based on denser soil layers. You should not arrange a MZLF on soils with heaving rates of more than 4% or if the GWL is above the burial depth, despite the fact that drainage of the site is not planned so that after that you do not have to deal with the consequences.

Section and configuration calculation

Since the MZLF acts like a beam and not a stiffener, the section of the tape is usually close to a rectangle or trapezoid in shape. Tape in the form of a tee or more sophisticated sections is almost never cast due to the fact that the material savings seem too small compared to installing more complex formwork.

The calculation of the MZLF is carried out in two directions: sufficient bearing capacity of the soil in the bedding plane and its own structural strength, which will allow the tape to maintain its rigidity at full design load from walls, roofs, snow, etc.

The width of the upper part of the foundation is determined by the maximum possible wall thickness, taking into account the layer of interior and facade finishing. When constructing floors on logs, it may be necessary to form a ledge or expand the foundation of the order of 50 mm.

The width of the tape in the plane of occurrence is determined entirely by the required bearing capacity. It is enough to divide the total mass of the building and calculate the average load for each meter of the belt perimeter, and then calculate the sufficient cross-sectional area of the support in accordance with the characteristics of the soil. To create a sufficiently high safety factor, the thickness of the incompressible bed is not taken into account.

The scheme of a shallow strip foundation: 1 - parent soil; 2 - backfilling with gravel or gravel-sand mixture; 3 - blind area; 4 - foundation reinforcement; 5 - shallow strip foundation with a wide base for even distribution of the load; 6 - wall; 7 - gravel bedding of the inner area of the foundation of the house

The height of the tape is defined as a component of its underground and aboveground parts. Everything is simple with the above-ground part - it should be at least 80 mm and no more than four times the width of the upper edge of the tape. In turn, the height of the underground part can be determined taking into account several factors:

the foundation should not lie on the border of dissimilar soils;
the minimum depth of the foundation is 35-40 cm, but, depending on the intensity of heaving and the depth of freezing, the height of the underground part may increase by an additional 60-80%;
to maintain the required strength characteristics of reinforced concrete products, the ratio of width to height should be no less than 3: 5.

Excavation and preparation

The profile of the trench for the MZLF device should have a width 2.5 times greater than the calculated width of the tape and a depth greater than the height of the underground part by two widths. This is due to the fact that MZLF is rarely arranged on soil formwork, using a board-board formwork for reasons of containing cement milk and the need to give the section a trapezoidal shape. Immediately, we note that the indentation of the pit walls from the formwork should be twice as large from the outside as from the inside.

Compensation of frost heaving forces is carried out due to an incompressible, non-heaving and hygroscopic bedding, as well as filling the lateral sinuses with similar material. A sand-gravel mixture with coarse sand and granite or basalt crushed stone of fraction 25-30 is used as a filling material. To stabilize the foundation, the prepared trench bottom is covered with a 30-50 mm preparatory layer of M 100 concrete without reinforcement.

Backfill at the bottom of the trench helps to distribute the load on the support layer of the soil, increase the bearing area and attract forces with a horizontal vector of application. The recommendation regarding the thickness of the backfill, equal to two values of the thickness of the tape, is rarely followed in practice, more often on slightly weeping soils, they are limited to preparation of 25-30 cm.

However, you must remember that the more pronounced the heaving, the more responsibility is placed on the bedding. Sometimes it is advisable to replace the soil up to the depth of freezing and expand the external sinuses to the shape of an inverted wedge, the base of which corresponds to the width of the blind area.

Reinforcement and anchoring

For MZLF, the total content of steel reinforcement without prestressing is set at least 0.1%, more real indicator 0.17-0.2% will provide proper reinforcement without excessive strength, but with a significant safety margin.

The minimum value of the protective layer for the underground part of the foundation is 60 mm, the maximum is no more than half the width of the tape. Working reinforcement is made by bars with a periodic profile of such a diameter that the total section of the reinforcement can be divided into 4 bars for the upper and lower reinforcement lines.

If in MZLF the vertical distance between the reinforcement lines exceeds 450 mm, add another row with rods, the thickness of which is at least 60% of the thickness of the main lines.

Structural reinforcement is made with clamps or wire for tying in increments of 2-2.5 values of the average width of the foundation. The diameter of the rods used for the manufacture of structural reinforcement should not be less than 50% of the diameter of the working reinforcement.

In addition, the reinforcement of the MZLF is accompanied by a number of anchors. At bends and T-shaped joints of the tape, each row of reinforcement in intersecting directions must be connected with bent embeds of the same section, the overlap of which with the main reinforcement is defined as 25 nominal reinforcement diameters. Anchoring with embedded studs may be required to bond to the base of the framing or masonry walls.

Concrete works

Before carrying out concrete work, it is recommended to cover the inner cavity of the panel formwork with a polyethylene film, which prevents the loss of liquid by the concrete mass until the moment it sets. After that, the reinforcement segments are installed, they are aligned and spaced using plastic plugs.

Most often, bituminous mastics are used to protect against moisture, on top of which insulation based on fiberglass or a cheaper roofing material is rolled. If the foundation does not require continuous waterproofing, the hydro-barrier film remaining after pouring is sufficient.

The sinuses around the foundation are filled with ASG immediately after the waterproofing has dried. Backfilling is carried out in layers of 30-40 cm with careful compaction. After that, all that remains is to make a blind area around the house, and the MZLF will be ready for further long-term operation.

One of the most effective types of foundations, arranged for any structure - T-shaped strip foundation cost... Such a base is characterized by rigidity, since there is a T-shaped profile. In the absence of water in the near soil layers T-strip foundation you can not deeply deepen. If the structure is massive, for example, a stone house, then the T-shaped strip foundation must be deepened by the amount of soil freezing. Our company has extensive experience in the construction of such foundations throughout Leningrad region and quality control of work at every stage allows us to guarantee the quality and exact timing of construction. To calculate the cost of the foundation, you can call us and get the advice of an engineer on all issues of interest.

Price for a T-shaped strip foundation, prices in rubles

tape, m * m	width height 300mm / 600mm	width height 300mm / 900mm	width height 300mm / 1200mm	width height 400mm / 1500mm	width height 400mm / 1800mm
6x6	67,000 RUB	91,000 RUB	120,000 RUB	195,000 RUB	224,000 RUB
6x8	74,000 RUB	108,000 RUB	141,000 RUB	247,000 RUB	275,000 RUB
8x8	80,000 RUB	119,000 RUB	161,000 RUB	270,000 RUB	330,000 RUB
8x10	90,000 RUB	127,000 RUB	171,000 RUB	293,000 RUB	371,000 RUB
10x10	100,000 RUB	143,000 RUB	200,000 RUB	322,000 RUB	390,000 RUB
10x12	121,000 RUB	195,000 RUB	270,000 RUB	375,000 RUB	450,000 RUB
12x12	133,000 RUB	181,000 RUB	303,000 RUB	408,000 RUB	507,000 RUB
* Provided that the site has electricity, water and living conditions for the team. Included in the price: Layout and marking of the site for the foundation Earthworks, excavation, trenches Installation of a sand cushion under the foundation Installation of formwork from a board Rebar tying Pouring concrete The cost of the foundation includes materials with delivery to your facility (within a radius of the city) We also carry out additional work on the installation of drainage systems, waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, make wells for water supply, install septic tanks and treatment plants. ** You can find out the more exact cost of the turnkey strip foundation by calling us.

T-shaped strip foundation

The T-shaped strip foundation is laid in almost the same way as a conventional strip. The peculiarity lies only in the device of a kind of formwork so that the concrete mixture does not flow out. It is important to achieve a perfectly even angle between the main foundation and the superstructure plane. The foundation structure is reinforced with reinforcement.
T-strip foundations can be built for houses, fences, sheds. The main advantage is the ability to save on materials, because the thickness of the above-ground part is less.
To avoid mistakes, it is better to entrust the T-shaped strip foundation to qualified builders. In our company you can find both the qualified assistance of the construction team and the necessary high-quality foundation materials.

There is no need to say unnecessary words that any structure, which is distinguished by its large size and heavy weight, requires a reliable foundation. After all, a house, terrace, bathhouse or garage should not fall through the ground, which cannot be avoided without a reliable foundation, since the earth and all soil rocks that make up it are loose and unstable under the pressure of large weights, which absolutely all capital buildings differ. The best option of all possible foundation is considered a strip foundation.

Several terms are used by professional builders to refer to parts of a foundation, such as the lowest part, called the sole, and the upper area that is visible above the ground, called the edge or foundation surface. The size of the foundation and the difference between the dimensions of the sole and the surface, which in some cases may be equal, depend on how heavy the weight of the load exerted on the soil is. This applies, for example, to low-rise private construction. But the sole and edge of the base of a high-rise building should be different.

Its organization can be handled with your own hands and without the involvement of heavy automatic equipment. The acquisition of a sufficient amount of knowledge on this topic, building materials and tools will allow you to quickly and efficiently create a strip foundation for a house, garage, bathhouse and other country houses. The base on the tape provides for the device around the perimeter of the future house of a strip of reinforced concrete, located at a depth that will be enough for the object under construction to be able to lean on the foundation for a long time and reliably. This tape, in accordance with the current construction standards, is laid not only under the external walls, but also under those partition walls that will be located inside the building according to the project. Since later, the owners of the house may want to add one more, or maybe two floors. In this case, these walls will not become ordinary partitions, but load-bearing walls.

Strip foundation, its types and technology for their creation

Reinforcement of the corners of the strip foundation: a) - reinforcement of the T-shaped connection; b) - reinforcement of the L-shaped connection.

The technology of laying the foundation tape makes it possible to distinguish several types of this foundation. These include:

monolithic;
made.

The first option will need to be laid right on the spot where the house will be installed or laid out. To do this, a trench is pulled out, into which a reinforcing mesh is installed, which is necessary to give the foundation more strength. The mesh can be replaced with steel wire, the diameter of which in the section can be equal to 3-4 mm, but when laying the foundation for a house of several floors, it is better to insure yourself and additionally strengthen the base by hammering metal crowbars around the perimeter of the foundation, which reach 8- 15 mm. Concrete mortar is poured into trenches reinforced with formwork.

As for prefabricated foundations, they, on the contrary, are built using concrete blocks, in turn, brought from a construction base or factory. They are delivered to the construction site and assembled using heavy machinery, among which the loader crane will be the main one, since the slabs are heavy and large in size. In order for the foundation to look more solid and stable, it can be laid in several stages. Blocks with large area sizes are laid down, and on them those that correspond to the width of the future walls of the house. These layers must necessarily be pulled together with reinforcing wire, and then all joints are carefully spilled with concrete mortar. Such a foundation in the section will turn out to be homogeneous.

Less popular is the prefabricated type of strip foundation, which is laid out from bricks. For it, red brick is used, since, unlike silicate brick, it removes moisture from itself much faster, which means that the strength qualities of the brick tape increase. This type of foundation is quite easy in the device, as it completely resembles the process of laying out ordinary brick walls.

Back to the table of contents

Determination of the depth of the foundation of the house

Strip foundation - device and dimensions.

It is worth pondering especially carefully over such a characteristic as the depth of the foundation, since the durability of the house under construction will depend on it. The foundation of a shallow depression will be suitable for the construction of a light house, for example, a frame house according to Canadian technologies, made of wooden material, for baths and garages, verandas. In some cases, it is allowed to install shallow belts under stone houses on one floor. The maximum depth of this type of foundation is 50 cm. In any case, in order for the foundation to stand as long as possible without problems, it must be reinforced with a wire with a cross section of up to 5 mm.

When the dimensions of the building under construction do not allow using the foundation of a shallow deepening and at the same time the level groundwater in the area under the house is high; it is recommended to build the building on a deep foundation. It will be possible to more accurately determine the starting point only after conducting a study of the soil and the level at which the groundwater is located. It should be remembered that earthworks will need to be carried out at a level lower than the existing result by 20 - 25 cm.

Once you have chosen a specific foundation depth on the tape, you can begin your workflow. However, experts recommend laying the foundation in warm seasons, when at least there is no frost. Otherwise, some of the original quality characteristics of the building material will come to naught, thereby reducing the level of strength of the base of the house and its service life.

The list of popular building materials for a strip foundation consists of 4 points:

reinforced concrete;
reinforced concrete blocks or slabs;
red or sand-lime brick.

You will need to choose the appropriate version of the material based on how many years you plan to build the foundation, what forces you have (meaning the presence of heavy equipment) and what is your financial situation.

The strip foundation has a non-standard geometry: its length is tens of times greater than its depth and width. Due to this design, almost all loads are distributed along the belt. Concrete stone alone cannot compensate for these loads: its bending strength is insufficient. To give the structure increased strength, not just concrete is used, but reinforced concrete is a concrete stone with steel elements located inside - steel reinforcement. The process of laying the metal is called strip foundation reinforcement. It is not difficult to do it with your own hands, the calculation is elementary, the schemes are known.

The number, location, diameters and grade of reinforcement - all this should be spelled out in the project. These parameters depend on many factors: both on the geological situation on the site, and on the mass of the building being erected. If you want to have a guaranteed solid foundation, a project is required. On the other hand, if you are building a small building, you can try, based on general recommendations, to do everything yourself, including designing a reinforcement scheme.

Reinforcement scheme

The location of the reinforcement in the strip foundation in the cross section is a rectangle. And there is a simple explanation for this: this scheme works best.

Reinforcement of the strip foundation with a belt height of no more than 60-70 cm

Two main forces act on the strip foundation: from below, in frost, heaving forces press, from above - the load from the house. In this case, the middle of the belt is almost not loaded. To compensate for the action of these two forces, two belts of working reinforcement are usually made: above and below. For shallow and medium-deep foundations (up to 100 cm deep), this is sufficient. For deep belts, 3 belts are required: too high a height requires reinforcement.

In order for the working fittings to be in the right place, they are fixed in a certain way. And they do it with thinner steel rods. They do not participate in the work, they only hold the working reinforcement in a certain position - they create a structure, which is why this type of reinforcement is called structural.

As can be seen in the strip foundation reinforcement diagram, the longitudinal reinforcement bars (working) are tied with horizontal and vertical supports. Often they are made in the form of a closed loop - a clamp. It is easier and faster to work with them, and the design is more reliable.

What kind of fittings are needed

For the strip foundation, two types of rod are used. For longitudinal ones that carry the main load, class AII or AIII is required. Moreover, the profile is necessarily ribbed: it adheres better to concrete and transfers the load normally. For structural lintels, they take cheaper reinforcement: smooth first class AI, 6-8 mm thick.

V recent times fiberglass reinforcement appeared on the market. According to the assurances of manufacturers, it has the best strength characteristics and more durable. But many designers do not recommend using it in the foundations of residential buildings. According to the standards, it must be reinforced concrete. The characteristics of this material have long been known and calculated, special reinforcement profiles have been developed, which contribute to the fact that metal and concrete are combined into a single monolithic structure.

How concrete will behave in a pair with fiberglass, how firmly such reinforcement will adhere to concrete, how successfully this pair will resist loads - all this is unknown and not studied. If you want to experiment, please use fiberglass. No - take iron fittings.

Diy calculation of strip foundation reinforcement

Any construction works standardized by GOSTs or SNiPs. Reinforcement is no exception. It is regulated by SNiP 52-01-2003 "Concrete and reinforced concrete structures". This document indicates the minimum amount of required reinforcement: it must be at least 0.1% of the cross-sectional area of the foundation.

Determination of reinforcement thickness

Since the strip foundation in the section has the shape of a rectangle, the sectional area is found by multiplying the lengths of its sides. If the tape is 80 cm deep and 30 cm wide, then the area will be 80 cm * 30 cm = 2400 cm 2.

Now we need to find the total area of the reinforcement. According to SNiP, it must be at least 0.1%. For this example, this is 2.8 cm 2. Now, by the selection method, we determine the diameter of the rods and their number.

Quotes from SNiP, which relate to reinforcement (to enlarge the picture, right-click on it)

For example, we are planning to use reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm. Its cross-sectional area is 1.13 cm 2 (calculated by the formula for the area of a circle). It turns out that in order to provide recommendations (2.8 cm 2) we need three rods (or they also say "threads"), since two are clearly not enough: 1.13 * 3 = 3.39 cm 2, which is more than 2.8 cm 2, which SNiP recommends. But it will not be possible to divide three threads into two belts, and the load will be significant on both sides. Therefore, four are laid, laying a solid margin of safety.

In order not to bury extra money in the ground, you can try to reduce the diameter of the reinforcement: calculate under 10 mm. The area of this rod is 0.79 cm 2. If we multiply by 4 (the minimum number of bars of working reinforcement for the strip frame), we get 3.16 cm 2, which is also enough with a margin. So for this version of the strip foundation, you can use class II ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm.

Reinforcement of the strip foundation for a cottage is carried out using rods with a different type of profile

Installation step

There are also methods and formulas for all these parameters. But for small buildings they do it easier. According to the recommendations of the standard, the distance between horizontal branches should not be more than 40 cm. They are guided by this parameter.

How to determine at what distance the reinforcement should be laid? In order for the steel not to corrode, it must be located in the thickness of the concrete. The minimum distance from the edge is 5 cm. Based on this, the distance between the bars is calculated: both vertically and horizontally, it is 10 cm less than the dimensions of the tape. If the width of the foundation is 45 cm, it turns out that there will be a distance of 35 cm between the two threads (45 cm - 10 cm = 35 cm), which corresponds to the standard (less than 40 cm).

The step of reinforcement of the strip foundation is the distance between two longitudinal bars

If our tape is 80 * 30 cm, then the longitudinal reinforcement is located at a distance of 20 cm (30 cm - 10 cm). Since for foundations of an average foundation (up to 80 cm high), two reinforcement belts are required, then one belt from the other is located at a height of 70 cm (80 cm - 10 cm).

Now about how often to put jumpers. This standard is also in SNiP: the step of installing vertical and horizontal dressings should be no more than 300 mm.

Everything. We calculated the reinforcement of the strip foundation with our own hands. But keep in mind that neither the mass of the house, nor the geological conditions were taken into account. We based on the fact that these parameters were based at.

Reinforcement of corners

In the construction of the strip foundation, the weakest point is the corners and the abutment of the walls. In these places, loads from different walls are connected. In order for them to be successfully redistributed, it is necessary to properly tie the reinforcement. Simply connecting it is wrong: this method will not transfer the load. As a result, after some time, cracks will appear in the strip foundation.

The correct scheme for reinforcing corners: either bends are used - L-shaped clamps, or longitudinal threads are made 60-70 cm longer and bent around the corner

To avoid such a situation, when reinforcing the corners, special schemes are used: the bar is bent from one side to the other. This "overlap" should be at least 60-70 cm. If the length of the longitudinal bar for the bend is not enough, use L-shaped clamps with sides of at least 60-70 cm.

By the same principle, the abutments of the piers are reinforced. It is also advisable to take the reinforcement with a margin and bend it. It is also possible to use L-shaped clamps.

Scheme of reinforcement of the abutment of the walls in the strip foundation (to enlarge the picture, right-click on it)

Please note: in both cases, in the corners, the pitch of the transverse jumpers is halved. In these places, they already become workers - they participate in the redistribution of the load.

Reinforcement of the sole of the strip foundation

On soils with a not very high bearing capacity, on heaving soils or under heavy houses, often strip foundations are made with a sole. She transfers the load to large area, which gives greater stability to the foundation and reduces the amount of subsidence.

To prevent the sole from falling apart from pressure, it also needs to be reinforced. The figure shows two options: one and two chords of longitudinal reinforcement. If the soils are complex, with a strong tendency to winter baking, then two belts can be laid. For normal and medium-rich soils, one is enough.

The reinforcement rods laid in length are working. They, as for the tape, are taken in the second or third class. They are located at a distance of 200-300 mm from each other. They are connected using short bar lengths.

Two ways of reinforcing the base of the strip foundation: on the left for bases with normal bearing capacity, on the right - for not very reliable soils

If the sole is not wide (rigid pattern), then the transverse sections are constructive and do not participate in the distribution of the load. Then they are made with a diameter of 6-8 mm, bent at the ends so that they cover the extreme rods. Tied to everyone with a knitting wire.

If the sole is wide (flexible pattern), the transverse reinforcement in the sole is also working. She resists attempts by the soil to "collapse" her. Therefore, in this variant of the sole, ribbed reinforcement of the same diameter and class as the longitudinal one is used.

How much bar do you need

Having developed a strip foundation reinforcement scheme, you know how many longitudinal elements you need. They fit around the entire perimeter and under the walls. The length of the tape will be the length of one reinforcement bar. Multiplying it by the number of threads, you get the required length of the working reinforcement. Then add 20% to the resulting figure - a margin for joints and overlaps. This is how much in meters you will need working fittings.

Now you need to calculate the number of structural reinforcement. Consider how many transverse jumpers should be: divide the length of the tape by the installation step (300 mm or 0.3 m, if you follow the recommendations of SNiP). Then you calculate how much it takes to make one lintel (add the width of the reinforcing cage with the height and double it). The resulting figure is multiplied by the number of jumpers. You also add 20% to the result (for connections). This will be the amount of structural reinforcement for strip foundation reinforcement.

According to a similar principle, count the amount that is needed to reinforce the sole. Putting it all together, you will find out how much reinforcement is needed for the foundation.

Reinforcement assembly technologies for strip foundations

Reinforcement of the strip foundation with your own hands begins after installation. There are two options:

Both options are imperfect and everyone decides how it will be easier for him. When working directly in a trench, you need to know the procedure:

The longitudinal rods of the lower armopoyas are laid first. They need to be raised 5 cm from the edge of the concrete. It is better to use special legs for this, but pieces of bricks are popular with developers. The reinforcement is also 5 cm away from the walls of the formwork.
Using transverse pieces of structural reinforcement or molded contours, they are fixed at the required distance using a knitting wire and a hook or a knitting gun.
Then there are two options:
- If contours molded in the form of rectangles were used, the upper belt is immediately tied to them at the top.
- If, during installation, cut pieces are used for transverse lintels and vertical posts, then the next step is to tie up the vertical posts. After they are all tied, tie the second belt of longitudinal reinforcement.

There is another technology for reinforcing the strip foundation. The frame turns out to be hard, but it goes high consumption bar on vertical posts: they are driven into the ground.

The second technology of reinforcing the strip foundation - first, vertical posts are driven in, longitudinal threads are tied to them, and then everything is connected with transverse

First, vertical posts are driven in at the corners of the tape and at the joints of the horizontal bars. The posts should have a large diameter of 16-20 mm. They are exposed at a distance of at least 5 cm from the edge of the formwork, adjusting the horizontal and vertical lines, and driven into the ground by 2 meters.
Then the vertical rods of the calculated diameter are driven in. We determined the installation step: 300 mm, in the corners and at the junction of the walls it is half as much - 150 mm.
The longitudinal threads of the lower reinforcement belt are tied to the racks.
At the intersection of racks and longitudinal reinforcing bars, horizontal jumpers are tied.
The upper reinforcement belt is tied, which is located 5-7 cm below the upper surface of the concrete.
Horizontal jumpers are tied.

The most convenient and fastest way to make a reinforcing belt using pre-formed contours. The rod is bent, forming a rectangle with the given parameters. The whole problem is that they must be made the same, with minimal deviations. And a large number of them are required. But then the work in the trench moves faster.

As you can see, the reinforcement of the strip foundation is a lengthy and not the easiest process. But you can even cope alone, without helpers. It will take, however, a lot of time. It is more convenient to work together or three of us: to carry the rods and to expose them.

There are many unclear things, you need to work with the project and soil data. According to the data provided, the following remarks:
1. Do not make walls of solid bricks. He is very heavy. It doesn't make the slightest sense. Everything that you save on brick will be lost on the foundation.

I do not save on brick, I just need a strong, reliable and cold (with high thermal conductivity) wall. My version is much more expensive than foam concrete and ceramics, which are 70% air. I go for it from their own considerations. Since I do not accept aerated concrete in principle. And I have an extremely negative attitude to warm ceramics. It is acceptable for the namts, but our production is a separate story.

2. Reinforcement of the designer is excessive in one place, and insufficient in another.

If you can tell me where exactly?
The designers were given the task to design the foundation, where the working and longitudinal and transverse reinforcement will be. That is, such a foundation must bear not only the load from the structure, it must extinguish uneven multidirectional forces of the soil.

3. In the "smart uncle" version, the height of the section of the tape for the MLF is small. The tape is not T-shaped, but the usual rectangular, with foundation cushions. You will not do this in one go. We'll have to make pillows first, and then ribbons. Accordingly, there are questions about joint work. 100%, like a monolith, it will not.

And in the first option, do not fill it at a time.

4. The reinforcement of the pillows at the “smart uncle” for supporting the cladding as shown in the figure is incorrect.

This task was not set. This is my idea of insulation, borrowed from the documentation of the manufacturer of EPSP Penoplex.

5. I would not bury a brick in the ground.
But this is all without a project and data on soils, just talk.

The backfill of the trench sinuses will be sand. Doesn't a brick live in sand?
As an option, lay out wall foam blocks in the ground, and then continue with a brick?

Geomorphologically, the site is located within the slope of the watershed surface facing the stream. Danube. The relief is not disturbed, medium-low, with a general slope to the east (i = 0.05). The absolute height of the surface is 237.3 m.

Modern physical and geological processes unfavorable for construction are not observed on the site.
3. Quaternary deluvial deposits (dQ) take part in the geological structure of the study area to a depth of 8.0 m. From the surface, these deposits are overlain by the modern topsoil (pdQIV) (Appendix 7).
Deluvial deposits are represented by clays. Clay brown, mica, with rare inclusions of carbonates (IGE-2). The exposed thickness of deluvial deposits is 7.5 m.
Soil and vegetation layer of clay composition (IGE-1). The thickness of the soil is 0.5 m.
4. Groundwater during the period of work (July 2011) to a depth of 8.0 m was not opened. In terms of potential flooding, the territory is classified as non-flooded (Appendix I to SP 11-105-97, Part II).
5. The base of the projected building is covered with clayey soils. Up to the explored depth of 8.0 m, 2 geotechnical elements (IGE) have been identified.

IGE-1. The soil and vegetation layer is clayey, according to the relative deformation of frost heaving during freezing, the soil is highly heaving. The density of the soil is recommended to be taken as 1.5 t / m3. The thickness of the soil is 0.5 m.

IGE-2. Clay deluvial, hard-plastic (flow rate 0.35 USD). According to laboratory data, clay does not have subsidence properties. The relative subsidence at a load of 0.3 MPa varies from 0.000 to 0.001 dollars. units (Appendix 3). Clay does not possess swelling properties (Table V. 1 of Appendix B SP 11-105-97 (Part III). Archival materials were used to obtain the standard and design characteristics. When calculating the deformation modulus, the coefficient of transition from the compression deformation modulus to the field modulus was used. equal to 3.7 (arch. No. 3777). Modulus of deformation is 14 MPa. According to the relative deformation of frost heaving during freezing, the clay is highly heaving. Rf 102 = 1.16 (p. 6.8.3. SP 50-101-2004). Revealed thickness 7.5 m.

Appendix 2 shows the data of laboratory determinations, which took into account the survey data of previous years, grouped by elements. All the characteristics necessary for the calculations are shown in Table 1 of the text of this conclusion.

6. According to the table. 4 SNiP 2.03.11-85, soils on the site are non-aggressive in relation to concrete of all grades in terms of water resistance (Appendix 4).
7. Corrosion aggressiveness of soil in relation to steel, determined in laboratory conditions, is estimated as average, according to table. 1 GOST 9.602-89 (Appendix 4).
8. Appendix 5 gives an assessment of the bio-corrosive aggressiveness of soils to metal structures, in accordance with Appendix B of GOST 9.602-2005. The criteria for the biocorrosive aggressiveness of the soil are the presence of visual signs of soil gleying and the presence of reduced sulfur compounds in the soil. IGE-2 soils are non-aggressive.
9. Standard freezing depth of clay soils - 1.5 m.

This is the ground floor plan. Height - 3.00 m. The second floor is similar in plan to the first, only without partitions. Overlapping interfloor slabs of reinforced concrete. They are based on the axes AB, BV, VG.

The difference in height on the second floor is 1.7 m (axis 2.3). 4.2m (axis 2). The roof is gable. 27 deg.

T-shaped base scheme

The base of the tape type is quite often used by individual developers for the construction of houses, baths, outbuildings, cottages and other structures. Its prevalence is associated with sufficient strength, reliability, availability of technology for independent work. Among the varieties of tape bases, the t-shaped foundation is given a special place. It is used for various structures. It is characterized by increased rigidity due to the fact that it has the shape of the letter "T". This version of the support structure is made buried or shallowly buried. This is determined by the load on it, as well as the hydrogeological characteristics of the construction site soil.

The tape-type foundation is a closed structure, which is erected from different materials of choice: reinforced concrete, prefabricated elements, stone or brick. Its parameters depend on the following factors:

soil on the site;
the location of groundwater;
the estimated load on the base;
climatic features of the region.

Varieties of strip foundations

The weight of the constructed structure is distributed along the entire perimeter of the supporting structure.

On tape bases, one-story or more buildings are erected from the following materials:

cinder block;
wood;
bricks;
foam concrete and others.

Varieties of strip foundations according to different classification criteria are presented in the table below.

The main task during construction is to choose an option that is suitable economically and in terms of operational characteristics.

Belt-type bases have a resource of about 70 years (subject to technology), they are quite simple to repair. The scope of the various options is as follows:

an unburied foundation is suitable for the construction of panel, panel, frame structures and log cabins on flat areas with loamy or sandy loam soils, on which it is allowed to lay floors;
a shallow base with a depth of 0 to 1 m is suitable for the construction of buildings from different materials on non-porous soils;
the t-shaped base is widened at the bottom and is used for any structures on different soils, if the site is not located on slopes or in a swampy area, and underground waters are deep;
recessed support structures are designed for the construction of buildings with a basement on various types of soil, even with high humidity;
a monolith belt is a belt, the width of which is greater than its height, and it is used only if the soil has good bearing characteristics, for the construction of frame or yard structures, log cabins.

Among different types strip foundation, you can choose the right option for different soils. The main problem is the action of the heaving forces. If the design depth of burial is more than 3 m, then it is recommended to give preference to the pile or in the form of a slab of the supporting structure, which will reduce the labor intensity of the work.

Diy construction technology of a t-shaped monolithic base

The technology for erecting a monolithic tape T-shaped foundation is similar to the construction of a tape. The only difference lies in the device of the extended lower part. Also, the formwork has a peculiar design so that the solution does not leak out. Reinforcement is also carried out to strengthen the base.

T-shaped foundation with communications

The advantages of a T-shaped base are:

ease of construction;
sufficient strength;
you can carry out all the work without using special equipment;
requires less financial and labor costs compared to buried and slab foundations, as well as less construction time;
for construction, concrete is used, with which the reinforcing cage is poured, or ready-made blocks, which speeds up the process.

They build a supporting structure for sheds, fences, houses from different materials. Due to the reduced thickness of the above-ground part, it is possible to save on concrete. At the same time, the area of distribution of the load from the building is more than twice that of the corresponding parameter of the strip base.

The construction of the strip foundation occurs in 2 ways:

with the installation of the formwork in a dug groove, in its width exceeding the same parameter of the base;
pouring directly into the trench, dug out in the shape of the letter "T".

The latter option is not recommended by specialists, because the buried part remains without a waterproofing coating, and this reduces the operating time by almost a third (by about 20-40%).

The technology of work provides for their implementation in 1 or 2 stages. In the latter case, the construction of the lower part (sole) occurs at the beginning, and then the construction of the tape.

The general algorithm of actions when working in stage 1 is as follows:

determine the structure of the foundation;
the dimensions of the sole and the tape are calculated according to the bearing characteristics of the soil of the construction site, as well as depending on the depth of freezing and the existing loads;
carry out the marking of the building plot;
perform earthworks;
cover the bottom of the trenches with a sand pillow;
install the formwork;
carry out reinforcement;
concrete is poured;
apply a waterproofing coating, and, if necessary, insulate, mount drainage system.

Calculations of the parameters of the foundation are performed based on SNiP 2.02.01-83, which regulates the construction of the foundations of buildings, and using reference books (for example, V.S. Sazhina). They give snow and wind loads for the region.

Sole device

Work begins with marking. The sequence of actions is as follows:

make cast-off, which is perpendicular beams fixed on racks, with a height exceeding the same parameter of the base;
arrange them in the corners according to the developed plan;
to indicate the outer planes of the walls, cords (ropes) are pulled along the upper beams along the perimeter;
check the equality of the inner diagonals to get a square or rectangle.

Formwork installation and reinforcement

After marking the territory, they begin to perform earthworks:

digging trenches, taking into account the margin of width for the installation of formwork and soles;
make slopes;
level the bottom of the recess;
cover the trench with a sand pillow.

Land work should be carried out taking into account the following recommendations:

the width of the trench in the presence of a basement or basement should take into account the place for the installation of the formwork and provide free access for builders: the margin inward is from 0.5 to 0.8 m, and outward - 1.2 m;
in order to avoid shedding at a depth of excavation equal to 1.5 m, the steepness of the slopes is made 1/1, and at 3 m it will already be 1 / 0.67;
around the foundation trench, it is necessary to dig a 40x40 depression for the drainage system;
the depth of the grooves must be made taking into account the thickness of the pillow, which is from 40 to 60 cm.

When the trenches are ready, then proceed to the installation of the formwork and perform the reinforcement:

every 70 cm, vertical racks are driven into the ground along the lines indicated by cast-off cords;
fix the boards to the stakes with screws or nails until the full height of the sole is reached;
strengthen the structure with planks, nailing them to the top row;
mount vertical reinforcing bars, the height of which is taken with a margin for a bundle with the overlying tape;
fix horizontal rods by welding or wire;
the sole is poured with concrete;
ram it with a vibrator or manually;
wait several days for the concrete to partially harden.

Foundation tape on the sole
Reinforcement rods are laid in at least two layers. The overlaps should be about 60 cm, and at the same time they should be offset relative to each other in the vertical and horizontal planes. The cross-section of the rods used, depending on the design load, ranges from 8 to 16 mm. A knitting wire with a diameter of 1.2-1.6 mm is suitable for connecting the rods.

Erection of the strip part of the base

After the sole has been poured and the concrete has partially hardened, formwork is installed under the upper part. Initially, shields are made of boards or plywood (or other materials) along the height of the tape. Their length is determined from the convenience of handling them when performing work, and their thickness is determined by the level of the future load created by concrete.

Subsequent steps for the construction of the foundation are carried out in the following sequence:

they mount the boards, resting their lower boards on the formwork of the lower part and combining them with the help of long beams (at the top and bottom);
with the help of stretched cast-off ropes, as well as a level, the formwork is set in the desired planes;
the shields located opposite each other are connected with horizontal ties;
with the help of inclined spacers, the formwork is fixed from the sides;
inside the mounted structure, the reinforcement cage is laid in several rows, while it is connected to the rods of the sole;
moisten the shields with water;
in uniform layers, pour the form with concrete, tamping it every 40-60 cm;
for a uniform flow of the solidification process, the base is covered with roofing material or plastic wrap;
periodically the upper part of the monolith is moistened with water (for about a week or two, depending on climatic conditions).

When installing the formwork Special attention it is necessary to pay to the corners, connecting the shields there securely so that they do not disperse.

Concrete gains more than half of its strength in about 7 days. Complete solidification takes about a month, which is determined by temperature and humidity.

It is permissible to remove the formwork at least 3 days after pouring the concrete. When it hardens, the basement and the underground part are recommended to be protected with a waterproofing coating. For these purposes, mastics, roofing material and other materials are used. Reliable protection against the destructive action of water will extend the service life of the building being erected.

It is possible to install the formwork and reinforcement cage of the entire T-shaped base at once. You will still need to fill it in parts: first the sole, and only then the tape. This is because the concrete at the bottom, if not hardened enough, will be forced out. For the same reason, the ramming of the filled layers of tape will need to be done carefully.

Installation of prefabricated foundations

The construction of a T-shaped strip foundation can be done using reinforced concrete blocks. The technology of work for their installation is as follows:

digging trenches below the depth of soil freezing in the region;
their bottom is covered with a sand pillow, which is then rammed;
blocks are laid;
connect them with reinforcement;
the joints are poured with concrete, having previously installed the formwork in these places;
the surface of the base is plastered, and after the applied coating has dried, they are waterproofed and insulated.

The first row of the foundation is laid out in wider blocks (or trapezoidal) compared to those located above.

The use of blocks significantly speeds up the construction process, but requires the use of lifting equipment. Due to the presence of a large number of joints, the operating time of the foundation is reduced, by about 3 times compared to monolithic counterparts. The standard dimensions of the blocks determine the choice of tape parameters.

The construction process of the T-shaped strip foundation is shown in the video below.

With fairly frequent heavy rainfall, the possibility of floods or the rise of groundwater, the drainage system is sure to suit. Its appearance is determined by the abundance of moisture, as well as its source. To reduce heat losses, the basement or T-shaped base is insulated in various ways.

The T-shaped foundation is a reliable foundation that you can build yourself. The choice of the concrete grade is determined by the future load on the base: for the construction of lightweight structures, material marked M100 and M150 is suitable, and for heavier ones - from M200 to M400. Waterproofing the sole and tape will help to extend the life of the entire building.

Most modern builders concretize the T-shaped foundation in exactly the same way as a hundred years ago: they build a formwork under the support base (widening), pour the mortar, remove the formwork. Then repeat the same steps when pouring the foundation tape itself.

This time-tested algorithm is certainly good for large projects, but it cannot be the best way solving the problem in small construction. You pay a lot when you order small quantities of concrete, and small projects usually require very little. Simultaneous concreting of the support sole and the foundation tape allows you to order one standard solution instead of two small batches of mortar.

It should be noted that it is easier to concrete the support sole and the foundation strip separately. If the sole is not flat enough, errors can be corrected during the construction of the foundation strip. With the simultaneous concreting, the formwork must be constructed extremely carefully.

Rice. 1. Castoff and cord. The threads stretched between the boards will help to correctly position the formwork for the T-shaped foundation. First, a long thread is attached, then a short thread perpendicular to it, applying the 3-4-5 triangle rule. Since the tensioned threads are needed only as guides, it is not necessary to place them at a certain height - it is important that they are at the same level in relation to each other.

Arrange the formwork like this. First, a cast-off is installed, between which the cords are pulled, which determine the position of the support sole (Fig. 1). Then the broadening formwork is installed. The tape formwork is mounted from above using metal strips and brackets (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Installation of formwork for concreting the T-shaped foundation

The formwork must be collapsible

When designing the formwork, one must not forget that it will have to be removed. Poorly designed connections can turn the dismantling process into a nightmare.
Here you need to take into account everything: and on which side (external or internal) it is easier to dismantle the boards, and how to do their joining in the corners, and whether it is worth using long boards or is it better to use short boards and connect them with an overlay.

Concrete foundation pad

Hold the concrete in the formwork

Another challenge when concreting the support sole and the foundation strip at the same time is the distribution of the concrete in the formwork.

When concreting a small foundation, a wheelbarrow may be required to distribute the mortar around the perimeter of the formwork, and an electric vibrator will be very useful for compacting the concrete. It will help get rid of voids and uneven distribution of the filler in the solution. However, it should be taken into account that vibration increases the pressure on the formwork, especially at the bottom and in the corners, which can lead to the destruction of forms. Anyone who has been concreting has encountered similar problems first hand.

However, the main problem of simultaneous concreting- keeping the concrete mass at the level of the upper edge of the support sole formwork. You will not be able to curb this lava-like flow by sealing the upper opening, as in this case the mortar will tear off the entire formwork (including fasteners) from the ground, leaving you with the concrete mash.

That's why key point simultaneous concreting is a careful control of the upper cut of the formwork of the support sole during the laying of mortar and vibration. As soon as the concrete starts to overflow the edge, you need to move to another point and let the concrete set before adding an additional layer on top of it.

When you come back, then with a vibrator you need to process both fillings together in order to ensure good adhesion of individual layers.This must also be done very carefully so that the formwork does not rise.

The shield allows placing the concrete mass into the formwork without splashing. If there is no assistant, support the shield and temporarily fix it.

Clean the formwork until the concrete has set. Formwork can be removed more quickly if you do not have to chip the hardened concrete to find fasteners. Another way to quickly disassemble the formwork is to use short boards in the form construction, connecting them with overlays.

Insert the reinforcement into one of the pipes up to the point of the intended bend.

Pass the bar into the second tube.

Bend the bar to the desired angle.

The outer corners of the formwork are easier to disassemble. When disassembling the formwork, you should start from one edge and gradually move to the other. From the side of the inner corners, it is advisable to design the formwork so that disassembly starts from the central section. Then further dismantling can be done in both directions.

To compact the concrete mixture, a vibrator is used, which allows you to get rid of air inclusions and eliminates working seams between the layers of concreting. It is better to use periodic immersion of the tool in concrete instead of constant vibration, which can put excessive pressure on the walls of the formwork and make the concrete consistency too fluid.

Often, strip foundations are used in the construction of private structures: cottages, baths, garages, etc. Its main advantages are low cost, good strength, ease of construction and reliability of the finished building. In this article, we will look at DIY strip foundation - step by step instructions.

How to make a strip foundation with your own hands?

The instruction consists of three important steps:

In the subheadings below, we will describe the next two steps of the device - 5. reinforcement and 6. formwork.

Shallow strip foundation instructions how to do it yourself

A shallow strip foundation is used on heaving and non-heaving soils. Its base is located above the level of freezing of soils, due to which, during freezing, it rises much less than other types of foundations.

What is important to know:

It is most popular in the construction of light frame and timber houses.
The burial depth is usually the width of the foundation.
Reinforcement is mandatory, formwork panels are installed on the ground, forming one space with the trench (it is more expedient to develop the soil using the trench method, and not dig a foundation pit).

Deep-buried strip foundation instruction

An important aspect of the instructions for the installation of a deeply-buried strip foundation is the location of the lower edge below the depth of soil freezing. This is necessary to provide support on a denser soil layer and increase the bearing capacity of the entire building.

Soil development is carried out by:

by the trench method with the installation of the formwork on the ground at the top;
digging a pit, with the installation of the formwork on the bottom of the pit, in this case, the walls of the formwork must continuously go above the level of the undeveloped soil.

The placement of the frame should be carried out after the installation of the formwork walls. Remember that the walls need to be pulled together with reinforcement, so the frame needs to be installed prior to this step.

Below is an interesting selection of the tape cushion device for blocks.

A deep strip foundation withstands heavy loads and various deformations. In order to avoid breaks and bends, it is reinforced with metal reinforcement - this makes the structure strong over the entire surface.

DIY T-shaped strip foundation instruction

It is economically profitable, since the area on which the load will be carried out is more than 2 times than the edge of a simple strip foundation. He settles in two main ways:

The second stage of the do-it-yourself strip foundation device with broadening is the reinforcement of the frame, general principle presented in the diagram.

Diy construction of an unburied foundation and a monolithic belt

Frankly speaking, I have already forgotten that such foundations and belts exist. But, remember that such a base is the soil under your foundation, therefore, if you prepare the base, then even a low monolithic belt will perfectly transfer the load to it. Here you need to choose: either rely on the base, or place additional pillars for reinforcement below the foundation tape.

Monolithic strip foundation - device steps, instructions

A monolithic strip foundation is a reinforced concrete strip that occupies the entire perimeter of the house. This type of foundation allows the construction of buildings of any shape and is suitable for solving non-standard design tasks (for example, the device of a trapezoidal bay window or a terrace with complex lines). Since this article is mainly about a monolithic foundation, it makes no sense to once again describe the steps of its device.

Precast strip foundation - 3 steps of installation, instructions

It is very rarely used in European countries, but in Russia it finds a sufficient field of application. Prefabricated foundation - practically can be called factory, you can be sure of the quality of concrete and the correct installation of the frame. Main advantage of this type- speed of construction and reduction of construction time. The disadvantage is the need to use a crane to place the foundation blocks.

First, let's pay attention to the scheme of the prefabricated strip foundation device, so that working with your own hands, you do not have unnecessary problems.

Please note that in the first diagram there is no reinforced concrete belt after above the foundation pillow. I consulted with a specialist: nevertheless, its use is considered mandatory, so the load will be more evenly distributed.

Step 1 calculation and marking of the prefabricated strip foundation.

Open a drawing room convenient for you construction program Or take a pencil and a ruler in your hand. First of all, draw the foundation blocks that are suitable as a foundation for your house (selected according to SNiP). Place the axes in the drawings and start placing the foundation blocks so that the center of the axis is in the middle of the foundation block.

Step 2 stakeout and trench excavation

This step is no different from the steps for building a brick or monolithic foundation. The only thing I would like to draw attention to is that there is a road near the construction site, from which the crane could place the foundation blocks in the trench.

Step 3 installation of a sand cushion under the prefabricated foundation

Pay attention to the following photo, we see a sand cushion carefully leveled with foundation slabs installed on it. Also on the left is a small formwork, into which the frame will be installed and concrete will be poured, that is, the places of shortage need to be monolithic, as well as the gaps between the slabs.

The next layer is an armored belt, see the diagram above. Already the armopoyas needs to be waterproofed.

After installing the foundation slabs, you can proceed with the installation of the basement wall blocks.

DIY brick foundation - instructions

Such a foundation is not often erected, in view of the high cost of bricks. Let's pay attention to technological processes erecting a brick foundation with your own hands.

Step 1 of the device of a brick foundation - plan, removal of axes, soil development

The development of the soil can be carried out both with the help of trenches and with the help of a foundation pit. Moreover, in the latter version, it will be much more convenient for a bricklayer to work. If there is no basement floor, then develop a trench so that a bricklayer can work in it (+40 cm from the edge of the wall to the outside). Also consider that the width of the foundation must be greater than the width of the outer wall.

Step 2 - cushion preparation and waterproofing

In the diagrams, a cushion of sand is often drawn, as can be seen in the upper picture. Indeed, it should be and it should be well tamped. But for reliability, you need to make a concrete preparation 10 cm high. At the same time, before placing the concrete, it is necessary to spread the waterproofing of such a width that its edges are wrapped around and protect the concrete preparation from the sides.

If there is a basement floor, then you need to waterproof the foundation at the bottom horizontally and vertically outside. If there is no basement floor, then only the upper edge of the foundation needs waterproofing.

Step 3 - laying bricks with your own hands

Any standard method of banding the rows can be used to lay the bricks.

Brick laying is carried out with longitudinal and transverse reinforcement. Moreover, after the first row, the installation of longitudinal reinforcement or reinforcement mesh is simply mandatory.

The dressing of the seams is obligatory, the seams themselves are not thicker than one centimeter. A slot brick will not work, you need a regular building brick.

The order should be something like the diagram on the right. Very often this order is shown in articles about brick foundation with your own hands, it's not true. This diagram shows the order of the walls on the first floor, not the foundation. But take the principle as a basis: the alternation of spoon and butt rows, the width of the foundation is not less than the width of the bearing walls, but better more.

DIY rubble foundation - 3-step instruction

A foundation with a butom can be arranged in two ways:

Butt strip foundation - 1 step

Trench and soil compaction, according to the diagram above. For non-porous soils, a coarse sand cushion is suitable under the tape. For heaving soils, you need a first compacted soil pad and a coarse sand pad.

Construction of a foundation made of rubble - step 2

Formwork or rubble laying on the line. If a concrete foundation is used, then the trench is bucked with concrete to the full width, while the work is carried out from above.