Do-it-yourself strip foundation for a hozblok. How to make a foundation for a barn with your own hands? Prices for lining, timber imitation, block house

A barn is a functional building designed to store working equipment, firewood, equipment, and organize a workshop. The construction of the hozblok begins with the arrangement of the base. Properly organizing the foundation for a barn means increasing the period of operation of the building, making your site ergonomically zoned.

Influence of the type of construction on the choice of foundation

Before you plan the base for the hozblok, you should choose its type. In suburban or private areas, the creation of the following types of sheds will be justified:

• shed buildings are distinguished by a flat, slightly inclined to the back wall, roof. The space is limited, only a door or a window is equipped. The simplest version of the base is a tape or shallow type;
• gable roofing provides for the construction of floors from tongue-and-groove lumber and doors on 3 hinges. Additional load in the form of 2-3 windows can withstand all types of fundamentals;
• squat chests are designed to store garden tools. For small buildings, a simple foundation is relevant;
• greenhouses are equipped when the barn space is not enough for the cultivation of vegetables, berries or herbs. It requires the construction of a tape type foundation designed for a massive barn;
• in the temporary hut you can not only store inventory, but also live in the summer. The building in the classical version is being built without amenities. To make your stay comfortable, lay the main communications - a shower, a bathroom, heating. The load of highways, entrance, window groups and country furniture can withstand the tape base.

When choosing the type of utility unit, you need to consider its location. A building at the back of the property will mask the view from the street. If the barn is assigned the role of a pantry, it is better to build it next to the house.

Do I need to consider the type of soil?

Before you build a foundation for a barn with your own hands, it is important to study the composition of the soil, their plasticity, the depth of freezing and the level of groundwater. The construction industry focuses on the following classification of soils:

• sandy ones acquire mobility under the influence of moisture, but freeze by 50 cm. A successful type of foundation, made independently, is screw, monolithic or tape;
• loams and sandy lands freeze up to 2 m, can float during floods. As on clay soils, only the tape type of the base is built;
• gravel soils are not washed out by rains, do not shrink during frosts. The optimal level of freezing at which it is possible to build a base on pillars is 50 cm;
• rocky soils are characterized by hardness, but on them all foundations can be organized, except for the screw one.

In order to independently identify which type of base is suitable for a household block made of brick, wood or other material, there are several methods. Soil is being taken from the construction site. Earth mixes with water, rolls out. Then a ring is formed. If you rolled the soil without difficulty, it contains 2/3 of loam or clay. You can put the soil in a jar of water. A cloudy liquid will indicate the presence of loamy components, a precipitate that appears - about sandy ones.

Preparatory work

Before you make a foundation for a barn, prepare. Study the levels of compression of soils, groundwater, the depth of freezing and terrain features. Make a markup and purchase materials:

• concrete mixer;
• bulk raw materials - crushed stone, sand, cement;
• bricks;
• water;
• screw piles, fittings and boards;
• insulation material;
• foam blocks;
• cord, stakes;
• level, rule;
• trowel, mallet (rammer);
• bucket and shovel.

The inventory list is universal and suitable for arranging any type of base. The list of materials is corrected in the process of choosing a specific type of structure.

Construction of a column type structure

If you planned to build a columnar foundation for a barn, then the costs will be minimal. The design will receive the required strength and reliability if a certain algorithm is followed:

1. The base on the pillars needs the amount of space for mounting the support. For buildings with the simplest layout, 4 supporting pillars are enough, the complex configuration of the building increases the consumption of elements - 1 for each corner.
2. The depth of the pits in which the pillars are placed is formed 15 cm below the extreme level of soil freezing.
3. The do-it-yourself columnar view of the base for the barn provides for simple brickwork. Before it begins, a sand cushion is formed.
4. Bricks are laid out on top of the drainage layer. Masonry in 1.5 elements is carried out with dressing, which ensures the stability of the product.

The hozblok is erected in 5-7 days. This time is enough for the columnar base to harden.

foam concrete base

In addition to brickwork, the foundation is equipped with blocks, for the manufacture of which foam concrete was used. Preparatory work and digging a pit are carried out similarly to the previous ones. The type of masonry is determined by the parameters of the blocks. Large, in the form of a parallelepiped, descend into the trench. The foundation of small foam blocks is laid in order and tied with cement.

Asbestos pipe pillars

The diameter of the asbestos pipes is selected according to the size of the trench. A sand and gravel pillow is laid at the bottom of the pit, trying to keep it below the extreme limit of soil freezing. The fragility of the walls of the asbestos pipe is eliminated by cement mortar, in which crushed stone or pebbles with small fractions are added. The mass is poured into the hole.

Organization of the strip base

The relevance of a solid tape foundation for any barn in private housing construction is based on the simplicity and speed of work.

Advantages of strip foundations

The design has many advantages:

• the ability to withstand heavy weight;
• affordability and easy work algorithm;
• increased levels of sustainability.

"Tape" is also distinguished by its versatility - it is laid on all types of soil.

Construction progress

To perform a tape type base, you need to calculate the amount of materials and refer to the step-by-step work algorithm. Do-it-yourself foundation tape is poured in a few steps:

1. The territory is marked with wooden pegs and stretched twine. The line of marks forms the line of the future base. Large outbuildings are laid out in sections.
2. A trench channel 45-70 cm wide is dug with a shovel. The depth of the pit is planned below the extreme freezing point of the soil.
3. A sand and gravel cushion is being set up at the bottom of the pit. Crushed stone with medium fractions is covered with a layer of 8-10 cm, and sand is poured over it by 4-5 cm.
4. Formwork is being constructed. For it, plywood or wooden boards are used.
5. Reinforcement is underway. Metal pins are laid inside the formwork frame, connecting them with wire. From plastic pipes of round or square section, air vents are constructed, which will be located in different parts of the base.
6. Concrete is being prepared. In home construction, it is advisable to calculate the proportions with buckets, since not everyone has access to a concrete mixer.
7. To fill the tape structure, you will need to make several cubic meters of the mixture. For 1 m3 of concrete mix, 300 kg of M500 cement, 1100 kg of crushed stone, 600 kg of sand and 150 liters of water will be needed. Optimal consumption of materials 2:5:9. The difference in the volumetric weight of the component for sand (bucket - 19.5 kg), cement (bucket - 15.6 kg) and crushed stone (bucket - 17 kg) is taken into account.
8. The mixture is poured into the formwork gradually, distributed with a shovel. Experts recommend leaving the first layer to harden, and then pour the second.

The concrete base tape completely hardens for 24-27 days.

Screw structure for utility block

A barn built on screw piles is a new technique for low-rise construction. The owners of their own plots can appreciate the versatility and affordability of the technique.

Characteristics of "quick build" technology

Pile supports are relevant on any soil. They are installed vertically, previously measured by the level. Screws with sharp ends and threads are screwed in and can easily enter any soil, except for hard rocks. Before starting work, the piles are leveled with a grinder and filled with concrete mortar.

Features of installing screw piles

The screw foundation is equipped quickly - 3 days are enough for the installation of piles. Work is carried out in any season. The barn, placed on screw piles with a special grillage, has a number of construction features:

• pile supports are placed in increments of 2-3 m;
• the number of elements depends on the size of the building. For a small shed, 4 piles in the corners of the building will be enough;
• the bearing capacity of piles with a standard screw diameter of 10.8 cm is determined according to the type of soil. For clay soil, supports weighing 2-4 tons are sufficient, for sandy loam - from 3 to 6 tons, for sands - 6-9 tons.

It is advisable to purchase screw piles with a diameter of 108 mm from galvanized steel. They will extend the life of the building up to 50 years.

Using a cinder block

The inexpensive cost of blocks of crushed stone, slag and sand allows you to build a foundation for a barn on your own. Hygroscopicity and high thermal conductivity will be acceptable for buildings of small dimensions.
The cinder block base is equipped in stages:

1. The soil is cleared of debris, tree stumps and leveled.
2. A trench is being dug where the blocks will be laid out.
3. A pillow is formed using a mixture of crushed stone, sand or limestone and carefully compacted.
4. Waterproofing is carried out with roofing material, on which the reinforcing frame is poured.
5. The first row of blocks is laid, and the next - in a run with it. The elements are fixed with a concrete mortar with a layer of 1 cm. To strengthen the base, a concrete mixture is poured into the cavity of the stones.
6. Having adjusted the base in height, it is strengthened with a belt of reinforcement.
7. The surfaces of the foundation walls are treated with mastic, and then thermally insulated with expanded polystyrene plates.

At the end of the work, the pit is filled up and the walls are built.

Monolithic base

A good option for making the foundation for the structure of the utility block is a monolithic slab. An ideally even base is used when a large load is created on the floor surface. For events, standard materials will be required - crushed stone, gravel, concrete, sand, boards and nails, as well as reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12 mm.

Algorithm for building a solid foundation

The fundamental monolith is equipped according to a simple instruction:

1. A pit is dug 1 - 1.5 deep.
2. At the bottom of the trench, a pillow is laid with a mixture of gravel and sand, elevated by 30 cm, the layer is rammed, crushed stone is covered by 10 cm and leveled. Be sure to control the elevation of the pillow above the ground (by 10-20 cm).
3. A formwork 10-15 cm high is constructed from lumber.
4. A reinforcing grid with cells of 200x200 mm is laid on the pillow.
5. A solution is prepared from 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 6 parts of crushed stone with medium fractions and water. The mass is poured into the formwork on the pillow.

The main advantage of monolithic slabs is immobility. Absolutely flat surface eliminates the laying of flooring, ensures the tightness of the building.

What should be the solution for the monolith?

To achieve a smooth surface, the working mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer. The device thoroughly mixes the mass, removes lumps. According to the volume of the concrete mixer, the amount of wet composition is calculated, which prevents the formation of cracks on the slab.

Non-standard ideas for the bases of the hozblok

In the country, you can use foundations that are made of materials that have become unusable - tires and sleepers. You will need a certain amount of elements, a little patience and a desire to build a solid foundation for the barn.

Rubber tire construction

The fundamental structure is justified on rocky, crushed stone soils or sandstones. The tire will be a kind of formwork frame for M15 concrete, damping the mobility of the soil. A tape or columnar structure is being erected from truck tires. Works are carried out according to the construction algorithm:

1. Garbage is removed from the ground, stumps are uprooted, the top layer is removed.
2. Tires are placed at the same level in 2 tiers so that they form a column. Removed soil is poured into the cavity of the tires (about 80%).
3. Roofing material waterproofing is laid on top of the column and concrete is poured.

The basement of an outbuilding has many advantages - strength, durability, good waterproofing. In addition, the use of used tires will save on the purchase of building materials.

Sleepers as foundation material

Reinforced concrete beams guarantee the stability of the barn, its quick repair. When working, keep in mind that the specific smell will remain on the site for a long time. The standard size of a railway beam is 2.7 m in length, which allows not only to mount a grillage, but also to equip the base for a brick or block shed.
Construction activities are carried out as follows:

1. They dig a trench channel, resembling a system for a tape-type base. The width is broken through more than the width of the sleeper by 2 times. Trench depth - 50 cm.
2. A pillow of gravel with a layer of 10 cm and sand with a layer of 30 cm is poured onto the bottom surface.
3. The bottom and walls of the trench are waterproofed, and then sleepers with strapping are placed.

Sleepers play the role of reinforcement, which increases the strength and rigidity of the foundation. In private construction work, only reinforced concrete elements are used.
To make a quality foundation, regardless of its variety, you need to follow a few tricks. A high-quality concrete solution is obtained from Portland cement grade M400, cleaned crushed stone and sand. Foundation construction activities are carried out sequentially - this is how your barn will receive the characteristics of strength, reliability and external aesthetics.

The pompous Persian word "barn", meaning both "palace" and the name of the capital of the Golden Horde, was habitually simplified by the Russian and adapted under the name of the simplest outbuilding. When buying a plot, sheds are usually built very first. They store tools and equipment for building a house and working in a garden. And then they can be used not only as a pantry, but also as an aviary for living creatures, and as a workshop for the owner of the house. Building a shed is easy. You don't need to have any super skills to do this. Every building project needs to start from the foundation.

Features of the base under the barn

Of course, a barn is an easy building compared to a house. But it also has not a toy weight, it is exposed to soil movements, groundwater rise, freezing, and decay. Therefore, the foundation is necessary, at least the simplest. It is a fundamental part of any building. And any foundation is bad and does not fulfill its functions if it is built out of alignment with the purpose and incorrectly.

A barn with the right strip foundation will stand for a long time

Foundation (from Latin fundamentum - base) - an underground or underwater part of a building (structure), which receives loads and transfers them to the base. There are strip foundations (including from cross tapes), columnar, solid, pile foundations. There are monolithic and prefabricated. Material - concrete, reinforced concrete, stone (butt), wood.

Big Encyclopedic Dictionary (BES)http://slovari.299.ru/enc.php

There are not so many varieties of foundations, and they all have common features. This is a deepening into the soil, a cushion of drainage material (crushed stone, sand, pebbles), the foundation itself and waterproofing. Only pile foundations do not have pillows - and then if they do not have a recessed grillage. And for lightweight structures, completely shallow foundations are also used. There is a rigid binding to the types of soils and the weight of the building.

Soil classification on the site

Before designing a house, it is better to order a professional survey of the site (and it is advisable not to use the results of a neighbor: sometimes even close sites vary greatly in soil). But by the time you get to building a house, a lot of time will pass; the construction of a barn does not require such accuracy, therefore, before building a barn, you can do the soil research yourself: turn a two-meter pit with a garden drill, taking out and studying the soil from different depths.

There are some simple tests. Water is mixed into the soil, you try to roll it out like dough and roll it into a ring. If this succeeded, then it consists of two-thirds of clay or loam. If the soil is poured into water - and it begins to dissolve before our eyes, the water becomes cloudy, then this indicates loam; sand and clay precipitate.

Scheme of precipitation in a solution of soil in water

According to the reference book "Soils. Foundations. The choice of the optimal foundation "soils are of three types:

non-rocky:

The area of ​​contact of the foundation with the soil must correspond to the load, taking into account the expected rebound of the soil. The maximum resistance (reactive pressure) of the soil is determined experimentally on the basis of the principles of soil mechanics, and the state building codes give tables of the permissible soil resistance for certain geographical areas.

Collier Encyclopedia

ground water

The groundwater level is also the most important indicator, on which not only the foundation "model" depends, but also the depth of its foundation.

The structure of groundwater in your area is very important information

Soil freezing

In addition to the composition of the soil, you need to know how deep it freezes in winter. In our "latitudes" the freezing depth is usually from eighty to one hundred centimeters, but with some rare types of soil it can be more or less.

The sole of the foundation must be below the maximum freezing depth of the soil, so that swelling of the soil does not affect when freezing. The safe depth depends on annual temperature fluctuations, on the type and range of local soil variations, and on the normal groundwater level. In addition, seasonal changes in the volume of clay soils are sometimes observed, which should not be allowed under a foundation laid on a natural foundation.

Collier Encyclopediahttp://dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/enc_colier/6886/%D0%A4%D0%A3%D0%9D%D0%94%D0%90%D0%9C%D0%95%D0%9D %D0%A2

Since the shed is light, very simple and extremely economical varieties of the foundation are more often used. But sometimes with difficult soils you need to strengthen them.

Types of foundations suitable for a barn

slab

Great for unstable or sagging soil; moreover, it is often used if the shed is heavy. Pros: solidity, reliability. Disadvantages: laboriousness, lack of underground, high cost.

An example of a monolithic foundation - such a foundation for a barn, of course, is too solid

Tape

The best option is a shallowly buried strip foundation. It can be from ready-made concrete, cement mortar, concrete blocks on mortar. Pros: comparative simplicity and financial availability of its construction. Cons: you can not put it on unreliable soils with similar soil waters, on clay and sand. But almost one hundred percent experts will recommend it to you, even if your site consists of unfavorable soils - but with amendments to the design: it will be necessary to make the “ribbon” of the foundation wider and deeper.

A strip concrete foundation in this design is also redundant for a light barn

Columnar

One of the easiest types to execute on your own. Suitable for light timber or frame structures. Such a foundation can also be not buried, but it is more suitable for gazebos and barbecues - it is too ephemeral for a house. It is exposed in the pits (on a pillow of drainage material) from factory concrete blocks. Pros: ease of execution, low price, suitable for any soil. Cons: not suitable for heavy structures; Virtually eliminates the presence of a subfloor, and the space under the barn will be poorly insulated.

Column foundation is very suitable for light structures

pile

It dampens movements well and is made from asbestos-cement pipes, which are concreted into pits with draining filler, and sometimes from ordinary metal and screw piles. Pros: suitable for unreliable soils and slopes, resistant to subsidence and landslides; asbestos-cement is also cheap. Cons: a pile-grillage with a metal grillage is very expensive due to the cost of metal for a heavy grillage and requires welding.

Pile-grillage foundation with screw piles is fine, but too expensive for a cheap barn

But there is also a mass of foundations combined in design and depth.

Photo gallery: examples of foundations suitable for a barn

Screw piles are disguised here A barn made of logs on a columnar foundation A barn on screw piles is an expensive solution
The strip foundation for the barn is sometimes very heavy and too redundant. Barrel barn on a slab foundation made of wood.
Boat Roofed Shed on Strip Foundation in Wales Plank Shed on Column Foundation A designer shed can be installed on any foundation; made in Russia

Video: types of bases for construction

From what and how to build: an overview of materials and methods

In order to have a good idea of ​​​​what we will encounter when building a foundation for a barn, we will briefly describe how the most common options for such foundations are made.

From a beam of large section

From blocks and bricks

Such a foundation is quite difficult to implement.

Strip concrete foundation

Piles and grillage from timber

Concrete piles

We will talk about the columnar foundation of concrete blocks in more detail later.

Preliminary preparation for choosing a barn and grounds for it

It includes very few actions.

Location selection

It is very important to place the shed so that it does not fall under strong gusts of wind or end up in a wind tunnel between two buildings (otherwise its parts will be subjected to unnecessary stress). In addition, it should not be under the slope of the roof of the house, so that it does not fill up with additional snow; on a slope so that it is not flooded; in the shade so that the snow does not stay on its roof for a long time; near large trees, so that the roof is not pierced by branches and covered with leaves in autumn. And most importantly: the land at the construction site must be suitable and level.

Choosing a place for a barn is a responsible matter, the right place will greatly facilitate your construction and further operation.

The right place for the barn will greatly facilitate its construction and further operation.

Design choice

Here you have full scope for creativity. It all depends on your needs, capabilities and skills.

A barn in the form of a trailer of the early twentieth century - decoration of the site

The barn can be anything.

But we will focus on the simplest small shed frame shed, standing alone, under which you will need the simplest foundation of all possible.

Scheme of the future barn on a columnar foundation of blocks

How to make a foundation for a barn with your own hands

If your task is only to protect your building from decay and moisture, and not to create a full-fledged underground, then your path is an unburied columnar foundation of foam or expanded clay blocks. Moreover, we will put the blocks not in a checkerboard pattern, 4 blocks per column, but one on top of the other - two per column. Our structure is light.

An example of blocks in the pillars of an unburied columnar foundation

Material selection and calculation

But on any site (unless you have just arrived at a virgin piece of field) there are always leftovers: pieces of roofing material, a hill of sand or gravel, several blocks or a hundred bricks. So the materials, most likely, will not need to be bought. But if necessary, you can display the following numbers.

Table: calculation of the required material and its approximate cost, based on average prices

If you replace the timber with a board, then the low cost will be even lower.

It is done in the most primitive way.

Required Tools

Step by step process

Video: how to design a frame barn and put a block foundation for it

A columnar, non-buried block foundation with a timber grillage is the easiest and cheapest way to create a good foundation for your barn. And it will be quite reliable. Dare!

The use of a land plot with a house is unthinkable without auxiliary, utility buildings. There is always a need for a place to store tools and equipment - a mower, a cultivator or other similar mechanisms that are inconvenient and impractical to bring into the house. And household farming is simply impossible if there are no change houses, sheds or sheds on the site. It is not difficult to build such a barn, placing it on a simple lightweight foundation. The step-by-step instructions below will give an idea of ​​​​how to make a foundation for a barn with your own hands.

What determines the choice of base

When planning the construction of utility buildings, you need to remember the rules governing their placement on the site. At the same time, one should take into account the height of the place where the barn will stand, the depth of groundwater and the type of soil on which it is supposed to build the foundation.

Soil type and properties

Natural soils are divided into three classes, which include many groups and subgroups. When building small light buildings, which is considered a barn, it is enough to know the properties of common types:

• rocky;
• clay;
• sandy.

Also found on private land plots are wetlands saturated with water to such a state that their bearing capacity becomes low.

For the construction of sheds, gazebos, you only need to have an idea of ​​​​the most common properties of the listed types of soils. Knowing them will help you choose the most suitable foundation design for the barn, calculate it, or, if it is impossible to use the foundation, abandon construction.

Rocky soils are very hard. They have a high bearing capacity, withstand almost any building without the risk of uneven foundation settlement. This is an ideal base for construction, if you do not take into account the complexity of development.

Clay soils contain a certain amount of clay. This makes them flexible and coherent. Clay soils include clay, loam, sandy loam. When dry, they have a high bearing capacity. Clay soils in the wet state are prone to fluidity and frost heaving. If there are conditions for the transition to a fluid phase, such conditions are taken into account, for example, by increasing the base of the foundation. If the soils are subject to freezing, the foundation is deepened below the freezing mark or measures are taken to partially replace the soil.

Sandy foundations are sands of various fractions, formed in the process of alluvium or during the destruction of rocky soils. Sands may be friable, but after reaching a critical state in compression, they have a high bearing capacity. It is also preserved when the soil is moistened or frozen. All sandy soils must be compacted and compacted before use.

The purpose of the building and the material of the walls

Depending on the purpose of the building, it is made of various materials. Strength, thermal conductivity, fire resistance of structures depend on this.

Often, lumber is used for temporary structures - board, timber or sheet materials - plywood, oriented strand board (OSB). In most cases, sheds are a frame made of timber, sheathed on one or two sides with edged boards or sheets. Insulation is mounted inside the frame. Less often you can see chopped wooden sheds made of timber or logs. Typically, wooden buildings are used to store property that is not afraid of temperature changes and exposure to humidity.

More durable sheds are built from foam blocks. Such buildings are suitable for storing vegetables in the winter, keeping pets and birds. Foam blocks have good thermal insulation properties, and a small low-power heat source in winter is enough to maintain a positive temperature inside. Such buildings, as a rule, are covered with wooden gable roofs.

What are the foundations

In private construction, the most common types of foundations are used:

• tape;
• pile;
• columnar;
• solid, in the form of a monolithic slab.

Tape

The strip foundation is a concrete or stone structure located under the load-bearing walls of the building.

In terms of the foundation, it looks like a strip of concrete or stone laid out on the ground. Hence the name. The area of ​​the sole of the foundation is calculated taking into account the load on it and the bearing capacity of the foundation.

Depending on the type of soil and climatic conditions, the strip foundation can be buried to a different extent. When installing it in clay soils, the sole must necessarily be below the estimated freezing depth established for the climatic region in which construction is underway.

As an exception, sometimes in heaving soils, shallow strip foundations are used in the construction of one-story buildings or light structures. To minimize the buoyancy effect of frozen water-saturated soil, part of it is replaced with sand bedding. The backfilling of the sinuses formed in the trenches after the removal of the formwork is also carried out with sand, since the friction forces of the soil on the side surface of the foundation are significant. Heaving soils, when frozen, can lift the structure of a light building.

A type of strip foundation is a shallow prefabricated block of 20x20x40 cm. After the concrete has gained strength, the foundation blocks are laid on a cement-sand mortar of a grade not lower than M-100.

Strip foundations are most in demand in the construction of buildings made of aerated concrete, foam concrete or expanded clay concrete blocks.

On screw piles

It is advisable to build light wooden structures on pile screw foundations. Sometimes it is enough just four piles installed at the corners of the future barn. The technology of the device is simple. Piles are screwed into the places planned for immersion manually using a special gate or mechanism. Further, their heads are connected with a metal or wooden grillage, along which walls are erected.

Pillars from blocks

Another simple foundation for self-construction is a columnar one. This design has been used since antiquity, when wooden log cabins were assembled on wooden logs or stumps. The house in this case was high above the damp earth, excluding contact with it. Because of this, it was dry and warm inside.

In modern construction, concrete blocks are used to construct pillars, which are laid on a carefully compacted sand cushion.

To make such a foundation, the vegetation layer is removed at the installation sites, recesses are made and the soil is leveled under all future pillars, removing excess.

Pouring soil to raise the level is unacceptable. Otherwise, its density under the columns will be different, which will lead to uneven subsidence during the operation of the building.

Next, a pillow of coarse sand is poured, spilled with water and carefully rammed. The thickness of the cushion must be at least 300 mm. The level of the top of the bedding is controlled by a rail and a hydraulic level.

The blocks of the first row are laid directly on the sand, checking the installation by level. The next rows are mounted on a cement-sand mortar of a grade not lower than M-100.

Monolithic type

One of the reliable foundations suitable for the device on almost any basis is considered to be a solid or slab foundation. Sometimes it is also called monolithic, although the strip foundation can also be monolithic in terms of the manufacturing method.

A solid foundation is located under the entire building area and acts as a concrete pad with a large support area. As a result, the pressure on the ground is minimal. Such structures can be erected even on subsiding water-saturated soils. It happens that such foundations are even called floating.

For the construction of utility rooms, this type is rarely used. Its cost is high and does not always correspond to the purpose of the buildings. However, in some household plots, the entire slab is poured under the utility block, the walls of which are made of brick or aerated concrete blocks.

Wooden piles and grillage

Often there are buildings on wooden piles. The wood used for their production must be dense, not subject to decay. Additionally, piles are treated with an antiseptic before immersion. The heads of the driven piles are cut to one level and a wooden grillage is arranged on which the walls are mounted.

Due to the need to use equipment for piling, such a foundation cannot be made on an individual site independently.

Budget option from tires

In a situation where the owner is short of money, you can build an economical version of the foundation for a barn with your own hands. A small light structure will stand on such a foundation for decades, if you choose the right place and follow some rules.

To make such a foundation for a barn, you will need several old car tires. The required amount can easily be collected at landfills or at tire fitting points during the seasonal tire change period. In the corners of the building and, if necessary, under the bearing walls, recesses are torn off, in which 3–4 tires are stacked on a sand cushion. Further, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick are poured inside the formed small "well" - everything that comes to hand, from materials that are not subject to decay.

The sinuses around the tires are covered with sand, and the inner backfill is carefully rammed. At the top of the backfill in all columns, it is recommended to make a screed of concrete class B7.5–B10 with a thickness of at least 100 mm. On these pillars, you can mount a grillage or lower trim of the frame structure.

Regardless of the type of foundation, it is imperative to provide for measures for the installation of horizontal waterproofing. To do this, along the upper mark of the structure, a roofing material is laid in two layers or a waterproofing material in the places where the grillage rests on the elements of a columnar or pile foundation.

Step-by-step instruction

Despite the existence of many types of foundations, the most common is shallow tape, made of monolithic reinforced concrete. It is this type that is traditionally chosen to build a small house, barn, shed or gazebo in a country house or country plot.

Tool preparation and purchase of material (including calculation of cement, sand, gravel, formwork boards)

Before starting work on the foundation, it is necessary to calculate the required amount of materials. To do this, you need to determine the load on the foundation. This value will be needed to calculate the width of the base of the foundation and subsequently to assign its dimensions, and hence to determine the needs for concrete.

The load on the foundation consists of the weight of the building, the snow load and the useful mass of the property that is in the shed if the floor structure rests on the foundation. If the floors in the shed will transfer the load directly to the ground (concrete screed or wooden floors on posts), the last component can be neglected in the calculation.

The weight of the snow load is determined depending on the snow area according to the standards given in the set of rules - SP 20.13330.2011, SNiP 2.01.07-85 * "Loads and Impacts".

The payload weight is calculated at the rate of 150 kg/m² of floor.

Knowing the perimeter of the building, that is, the length of the foundation tape, it is easy to determine its width by dividing the obtained value for the sole area by the length of the tape. The minimum width of the foundation must be 300 mm.

The height of the tape is taken at least 600 mm.

By calculating the volume of the foundation, you can determine the required amount of concrete mix. To do this, multiply the volume of the foundation by 1.1 - the safety factor.

To prepare 1 m³ of B10 concrete, the following components are needed:

1. Cement - 250–260 kg.
2. Sand - 750–850 kg.
3. Crushed stone fraction 5–20 mm - 1100–1200 kg.
4. Water - 150–180 l.

Knowing the required amount of concrete mix, calculate the amount of materials for its preparation.

For formwork, an edged board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is used, from which it is necessary to knock down panels with a width equal to the height of the foundation. The number of boards is easy to calculate if you determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe vertical surface of the foundation on the inside and outside. You should take into account the number of boards on the cross-beams of the shields and on the supports, which are located in increments of 800–1000 mm.

Earthworks (depth, pad preparation, etc.)

Consider in detail the rules for the work:

1. Inside the area of ​​​​the future building, remove the soil and transport it to the side.
2. At the place where the foundation will be installed, dig a trench with a depth of at least 500 mm and a width of half a meter more than the width of the foundation.
3. Level the bottom of the trench, trying to give it a horizontal position. It is impossible to add soil, it is better to level it with sand later.
4. Across the entire width of the trench, make a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 300 mm. After tamping, level its surface according to the hydraulic level.

Reinforcement (types of reinforcement, diameter, how to calculate correctly)

Reinforcement of the concrete tape is carried out after the installation of the formwork. For longitudinal, working reinforcement, hot-rolled steel rods of a periodic profile (class A reinforcement) are used. It is allowed to use smooth cold-drawn reinforcement of class B as transverse reinforcement.

The diameter of the reinforcement for the strip foundation is determined by calculation. Its procedure is set out in SP 63.13330.2012 and SNiP 2.03.01-84 "Concrete and reinforced concrete structures". With the loads that the foundation under the barn will take, the values ​​\u200b\u200bobtained in the calculation are so small that the reinforcement will have to be installed constructively.

In the upper and lower chords, it is enough to strengthen two rods with a diameter of 14 mm as longitudinal reinforcement. As a transverse - rods with a diameter of 8 mm.

They are connected to each other only with twists from a special knitting wire. Welding of load-bearing reinforcement is prohibited. In the corners of the foundation, the rods must be bent, and not connected crosswise. They are lengthened so that the overlap is at least 30–40 diameters, that is, for 14 mm reinforcement, this is 420–560 mm.

The reinforcement is installed so that it does not touch the formwork and subsequently the rods are filled with concrete without contact with air. The thickness of the protective layer must be at least 25 mm. For convenience, in the production of reinforcing work, you can use special plastic brackets that ensure the implementation of this standard.

Formwork installation and concrete pouring (completion time)

Formwork for a tape monolithic foundation is installed using stakes and supports. The verticality of the installation of shields is constantly monitored.

After the formwork is installed and the reinforcement is installed, concreting is carried out. When making concrete with your own hands in an electric concrete mixer, the productivity of the latter may not be enough to fill the formwork in one day.

In this case, concreting is carried out in tiers 250-300 mm high or using the “sloping layer” method. Its essence lies in the fact that the extreme batch of concrete, laid in the formwork, is given a gentle slope so that the next day the joint is inclined, not vertical. So the load in the future foundation will be distributed evenly, and the vertical reinforcement will prevent cracks and shifts.

The compacted concrete mixture poured into the formwork must be protected from the effects of the sun and wind. At high temperatures, it is necessary to constantly moisten the surface of the foundation.

Ordinary (not fast-hardening) cement gains only about 50% strength in seven days. It is allowed to act on concrete structures with an operational load only after 28 days, when the strength is 70% of the calculated one.

Removal of the formwork is allowed seven days after the laying of concrete.

The backfilling of the trench is carried out with sand with the obligatory pouring and compaction of the latter.

Prevention of possible errors

Very often, when building foundations on their own, inexperienced builders make a number of mistakes that are very difficult to fix later, and sometimes impossible.

The most common of them are described below:

1. An incompletely selected vegetative layer of soil from under the sole of the future foundation threatens with uneven subsidence of the latter. The roots and stems of plants, dying off, will create additional pores in the soil, the location of which will be random and uneven.
2. The sand cushion is not sufficiently compacted, which also threatens uneven foundation settlement.
3. Formwork poorly fixed. It can collapse under the pressure of the concrete mixture.
4. Reinforcement in the corners is connected "criss-cross", not providing sufficient contact between the rods. In the case of high tensile stresses, the foundation at the corners may break, vertical cracks will appear.
5. The device of a protective layer of concrete is not provided. Reinforcement, interacting with air, begins to rust. Corrosion, spreading along the rod inward, destroys it and reduces strength.
6. The laid concrete is too liquid. Often, with self-preparation of water, more than the prescribed norm is added to improve the workability of the mixture. As a result, the concrete is stratified - a large aggregate settles down, a small one "floats" up. It is necessary to carefully compact the concrete mixture poured into the formwork.
7. It is not allowed to "dry" concrete for speedy hardening. To dry, it will dry, but from this it will lose a significant part of its strength. On hot days, the concrete is covered with a film, tarpaulin or other similar material. If necessary, water the structure with water to create the necessary temperature and humidity conditions.

Auxiliary buildings and structures on the site, as a rule, are built with their own hands. This does not require knowledge of such a level as for the construction of a residential building with engineering networks and communications. Therefore, it is quite justified to do the foundation yourself, without resorting to the services of third-party organizations. This will help reduce the cost of landscaping the site, and self-made buildings are easier to operate and maintain.

Building your own home is unthinkable without a place where you can store tools. A barn, garage or similar outbuilding precedes the "development" of the land. Well, the construction itself begins with the foundation. Preparing a foundation for a barn with your own hands is a simple task, but it requires preparation. In addition, the invaluable experience gained will be useful in the future. The topic of theoretical and practical skills will seem extremely useful when working on larger objects.

An outbuilding on the site, at first glance, may seem very simple, in terms of construction, construction. This simplicity is deceptive.. But do not forget that the thoroughness of the approach during construction will ensure long-term operation without repair. The appearance without cracks and dampness will be attractive with proper construction, which begins, regardless of the fact that it will be a foundation.

The soil as it is

Before starting work, you need to answer the question of how to make the building for a long time stood without marriage and at no extra cost. The answer includes many conditions that should be carefully considered. First of all, it is necessary to choose the type of foundation that, without prejudice to itself, will perceive, distribute and transfer the load from the building to the ground, and at the same time it will not deform itself.

We are talking about the relatively inexpensive construction of a garage or barn, costs must be economically justified. Why invest heavily in a deep slab foundation where you can get by with a cheap pile foundation?

The choice of the type of foundation for the future construction is primarily influenced by the soil located on the site. In our latitudes, rocky, sandy, gravel soils are found. At the construction site, sandy loam and loam may be unfavorable for construction.

rock variant soil is the most favorable for construction - this is an almost natural version of the foundation, which nature itself has prepared. It is stable, does not change its structure during frost, is not affected by moisture. There is only one drawback - digging it is a very time-consuming task, which only compensates for its small volumes. On such soil, the depth of the base may not be very deep.

How good is the type described above, how bad is the view from sandy loam and loam. It has a high freezing depth, like sandy soil, it forms quicksands, which, if the depth of the foundation is insufficient, can move the wall of the structure to the side. With these types of soil, the foundation must exceed the freezing depth.

Outbuildings are not too heavy, so it is suitable for them shallow foundation, the dependence on the effect of low temperatures on the soil has not gone away, on average it is believed that the depth of the foundation for the barn is sufficient, with a size of sixty centimeters.

Tape

Historically, the most commonly used foundation is strip foundation. For a shed 6 by 3 meters, this option is not bad, since the subtleties of the production of this foundation are known to almost everyone. A strip foundation for a barn is a fairly justified choice, this is a time-tested solution, if it is built correctly, will last for many years.

Recall how to do it.

Along the perimeter of the building, whatever it is, digging a trench, about seventy centimeters wide, the depth should be fifteen centimeters higher than the freezing level. Bottom compacted in several passes, then a pillow is prepared at the bottom. It finally levels the bottom of the ditch, and takes on some of the functions of the foundation itself, plus it provides protection from moisture.

Making a foundation without a pillow is a common mistake builders make. The pillow will better cope with its “duties” if you make two layers: a compacted ten-centimeter layer of rubble and half the size of sand. Then formwork is being prepared, its height should be twenty-five centimeters above ground level.

Reinforcement strengthen the concrete and the foundation of the house. A mesh with a cell width of about thirty centimeters is knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 1.2 centimeters. Concrete is gradually poured into the prepared pit, after hardening, the wooden frame is removed, the remaining voids are covered with earth. After laying the waterproofing, you can continue construction. Knowledge of the technology of how to pour the foundation for a barn and practical experience will be useful in the further arrangement of the site.

Columnar

A columnar foundation for a barn will be cheaper. The only thing hindering the widespread use of this option is that it cannot be laid on moving soils, since the connection between the supports is not rigid enough. However, favorable soils make a barn foundation a better choice. This foundation, as well as the tape one, is quite possible to make it yourself.

Work is provided in the corners, and depending on the design, and at the intersection of the walls, installation of poles. The columnar foundation for the barn provides for the use of brick, concrete, asbestos pipes filled with cement mortar. Work requires exercises with a shovel, but in a much smaller volume than with a strip base.

Below the freezing depth, pits are dug, their bottom is compacted, a fifteen-centimeter pillow of crushed stone-sand mixture is poured. She is also rammed. The next step is the installation of the supports themselves. Either, after preparing the formwork, a solution is poured, or bricks are laid, the meaning is the same. A metal rod is installed inside the support, which increases the bearing capacity. A columnar foundation for a barn will reduce material consumption, the amount of earthwork and construction time.

Foam blocks

Foam blocks are a fairly common building material, which excellent for foundation construction. When choosing such a solution, it is even possible to continue construction from foam blocks, walls made of this material will not create an additional load on the base. But do not forget, in this case, about waterproofing.

The prevalence of construction from foam blocks is due to adequate price for this material, its lightness, not at the expense of strength. Strength, in turn, allows it to be used to form the foundation. Perhaps, for a barn, this is the best option for the foundation.

Construction of this type is similar to the creation of a strip foundation. In the same way, soil is developed around the perimeter, the bottom requires compaction. Similarly to the first option considered, a pillow is created from two layers. A wooden blind area will create boundaries for concrete, the height of which is within twenty centimeters. After it is poured and solidified, it is time to install the blocks.

One of the first buildings on a suburban area is a barn. A necessary and functional structure even before the construction of the house, because you always need to store tools, firewood and other auxiliary utensils somewhere.

It is possible to independently approach the construction of a utility block. The main requirement for the reliability of future construction is a high-quality foundation base.

Features of building a foundation for a barn

For light change houses for inventory, the absence of a base is allowed. If the building is more massive, then the plinth must be completed.

The foundation gives the building:

• Strength.
• Durability.
• Thermal conductivity.
• Frost resistance.

First of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the location of the future barn. Arrange so as not to damage the landscape design of the site, for comfortable operation or on soil unsuitable for planting.

Then you can start choosing the type of foundation.

Reinforcing mesh for the foundation

The dependence of the type of foundation on the type of building

The choice of the type of foundation depends on the design features of the future barn, as well as on the purpose of the utility block. Will it be a livestock room or a tool room along with a workshop. All these functions performed will entail the choice of the type of foundation. So lightweight buildings do not require powerful foundations, in turn, capital structures will require a reliable rigid foundation.

If the choice fell on a classic hozblok from a bar with a gable or shed roof, any foundation will do. Most often they choose columnar or screw due to their low cost and relative ease of installation.

A solid structure of brick or foam blocks will require the installation of more, preferably a monolithic tiled or block base.

Shed Foundation Depth

The depth of the base is selected according to the type of foundation, as well as taking into account the local level of soil freezing. Important: trenches are dug 15 cm more than the depth of soil freezing.

Since the barn is most often a small-sized building, a shallow-buried foundation will fit perfectly. Equally well suited for buildings made of wood or timber on clay or sandy soils. The hole in this case is dug to a depth of about 60 cm.

For a more massive structure, for example, made of brick, as well as under unfavorable soil conditions, it is worth placing the foundation to a depth of 100 cm.

How to choose a foundation for a lightweight building?

When choosing any type of plinth, it is worth considering the main characteristics of the soil at the construction site.

The following soil properties are taken into account:

• availability of groundwater;
• soil compressibility;
• the presence of quicksand;
• type of soil.

According to the type of soil prevailing on the plot, the following types of plinth are selected:

1. On sandy soil, which can “float” under conditions of high humidity, it is more expedient to build a screw or column foundation. The freezing characteristic of such soil is usually 40 - 70 cm, this should be taken into account when deepening the base.
2. The worst option for construction is sandy loam and loam. Such soil has a high degree of freezing (up to 2 meters), the ability to swell and compress, and often forms quicksand. For such soil, it is worth choosing a screw base.
3. Gravel soil is much less prone to freezing, is not subject to deformation and destruction, and is not subject to erosion. Here it is allowed to use both tape and columnar, and block view.
4. The most favorable option at a construction site is rocky soil. She will not sag, she will not freeze, and she will not swim. The only disadvantage of this soil is the laboriousness of processing, so the foundation can be installed any, except for the screw one.

Necessary materials and tools

To save working time, as well as high-quality construction of the foundation, you should prepare in advance a set of materials and tools from the following list:

• water;
• cement with sand or a specialized building mixture;
• concrete mixer - in extreme cases, you can get by with improvised means, but it will significantly save labor and time for mixing the solution;
• bricks;
• metal fittings;
• asbestos pipes;
• waterproofing - polyethylene film or roofing material;
• metal piles;
• Bulgarian;
• boards or plywood for formwork;
• foam blocks;
• Master OK;
• cord or twine;
• building level;
• pegs;
• rule;
• buckets and shovels (shovel and bayonet);
• roulette;
• tamper.

The list may vary depending on the type of plinth and the process of preparatory work.

Construction technology

Construction technology- a set of measures aimed at creating a structure that meets the requirements of the selected type of structure. Construction as a whole consists of several successive operations.

The first is site preparation. The selected place is cleared of grass, small shrubs, stumps, and a 10 cm layer of soil, carefully leveled. It is important to place the foundation on a flat surface in order to avoid further distortion of the structure.

slab foundation

Detailed step-by-step instructions from marking to the finished foundation

The first stage of construction is the same for all types of supporting structures - marking and tracing. To do this, with the help of a tape measure and wooden pegs, the corners of the future hozblok are outlined. The stakes are driven into the ground, a rope or cord is pulled between them and leveled to adjust the horizontal. Be sure to check right angles.

Column Foundation

Future poles are marked in each corner of the barn when building the simplest structure. If the project is more complex, then it is necessary to install pillars every 1 - 1.5 meters of the perimeter of the structure. With the help of a garden drill, wells about 40x40 cm wide are dug in the designated places. After that, a pillow of sand and gravel 20 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of each pit.

• Brick- the pillars are laid out with a standard one and a half brick masonry to the desired height.
• concrete blocks- it can be one large block or small blocks fastened with cement mortar.
• asbestos pipes- the required size is installed in the pits, later poured with concrete.
• - in this case, concrete is also poured into the prepared cavity. After drying, the formwork is removed.

For strength, reinforcement bars are fixed inside the pillars, if possible. Upon completion of the work, a layer of waterproofing is laid out on top to prevent destruction by moisture.

screw foundation

Such a design will not require additional soil preparation, because. mounted even on the most difficult type of soil. Special metal piles with a sharp tip and cutting blades are used here. Installation locations are marked similarly to a columnar view.

Piles are screwed vertically into the ground by two to three people . For simplification of work above to each pipe the opening for scrap is provided. Be sure the entire structure is leveled vertically. Extra parts in height are cut off with a grinder. To give greater strength, it is recommended to fill the pile cavity with concrete.

Monolithic foundation

The most costly and time-consuming, but the most durable and durable type of plinth. For its construction, it is necessary to dig a pit according to the size of the proposed barn. A layer of sand and a layer of crushed stone, 10–20 cm each, are laid at the bottom. Everything is carefully packed. Next, you need to build a formwork 10 - 15 cm high above ground level. A bonding reinforcement or mesh is laid, and the space is solidly poured with concrete.

Strip foundation

This type is intended for the basis of wall structures. A trench up to 50 cm wide is dug along the perimeter along the markings. It is important to observe right angles. The bottom is covered with sand, rammed. Next, a formwork is constructed, rising 20 cm above the ground. With the help of reinforcement and wire, a reinforcing cage is made. Then the entire tape is poured with concrete mortar.

block foundation

Installation of blocks in this design takes place on a monolithic base. If we are talking about the budget version of the basement, then it is allowed to use concrete blocks on a specially prepared pillow. In this case, a hole is dug according to the size of the hozblok, a layer of sand is poured, spilled with water and compacted.

Then a layer of rubble, and also carefully compacted. Concrete blocks of the required size are installed on the constructed site along the perimeter, horizontally aligned with a level.

Construction of a strip foundation

Before pouring the supporting structure, it is necessary to prepare a solid tenacious mortar from a mixture of cement, water, sand and gravel. The following rules will help you do this correctly:

1. When buying dry cement or building mix, be sure to pay attention to the production date. Ordinary Portland cement will do here.
2. To save cement, you should choose gravel of different diameters with large and small pebbles. In this case, fine gravel will serve as a link for coarse gravel and less cement will be needed.
3. Crushed stone should not contain garbage and various impurities.
4. Water should also be used clean, best drinking.
5. Sand should be free of clay and silt impurities.
6. The classic mortar recipe: 3 parts sand, 5 parts crushed stone, 1 part cement - pour everything with water, mix until a thick homogeneous mass is obtained.

barn without foundation

Some lightweight buildings will not require a plinth at all. This includes sheds such as a chest or a combined greenhouse. They mainly store inventory, tools, garden supplies, germinate plants, root cuttings and other household needs.

Due to the small area and limited size, such structures have low pressure on the ground, and, accordingly, they can do without a foundation.

Another modern innovation is the prefabricated plastic shed. Such a structure can be built by every summer resident. The assembly is carried out according to the type of children's designer, without the use of special skills and complex fasteners.

This building is a metal frame, the walls, roof and floor of which are made of durable frost-resistant plastic. Thanks to the built-in floor, the structure of the barn is protected from groundwater. It will always be comfortable to work in it, especially with well-designed ventilation. Even harsh winters and a heavy mass of snow, this design will withstand perfectly.

The undoubted advantages of this type of hozblok are:

• assembly time - in the absence of experience, everything will take about three hours;
• such a structure can be moved from place to place;
• does not require maintenance - with careful operation it will last up to thirty years;
• easy to clean with running water from a hose.

A reliable foundation for a barn is half the way to a functional structure that can last for decades. Doing it yourself will not be a big deal. It is only important to conduct a soil study to correctly determine the type of foundation, as well as to decide in advance on the project, design and purpose of the future building.